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made wardrobe lessons :: seams

4/12/2017

6 Comments

 
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I took this sew-all-my-own-clothing-this-year challenge on a whim. I thought of it, typed it, and hit "post". It wasn't a well planned decision, but I do hope that there will be some revelations along the way. I want to be a little more intentional about scouting out the lessons and sharing them as well.

Sewing one's own clothing is a great way to learn about the skill and time that goes into the clothing we wear every day. The seams that hold a garment together are as important as the fabric or design. Raveling seams are the reason given for many fast fashion pieces ending up in the landfill. As time progresses, I become more and more disappointed with the more mid-range garment construction as well. The usual ready-to-wear garment today employs overlocked seams, which are much quicker to sew and should keep the edge of the fabric from fraying or unraveling...one zip through the sewing machine + done. Cheaper and cheaper clothing has become the norm necessitating garment workers' salaries decrease and decrease. In order to save time, backstitching at the beginning and end of each seam is often omitted. This back and forth stitching is what keeps a line of stitching from beginning to unravel. 

French seams involve sewing a seam twice...first with right sides together and then again with wrong sides together. This type of seam encloses the raw edges and keeps them from unravelling over time and with washing. This results in a much cleaner finish and is much more durable. My own sewing includes french seams as much a possible, and  I appreciate them so much on ready to wear garments as well. They speak to the quality and projected longevity of a garment.
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overlocked seams at side seam + hem
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all enclosed seams :: no raw edges
The french seam on the top (at right above) that I bought years ago from J. Crew is above the little triangle shape (which also has all of its edges enclosed). It has been sewn down with another line of stitching which adds another detail to the exterior. This top has lasted and lasted to the point of it being worth removing the sleeves and changing the neckline to turn it into a sleeveless top that I wear walking in the summer.

French seams are a great detail to look for when shopping. I often take note when looking inside for the fiber content tag. It's not necessarily a make it or break it ultimatum, but careful finishing certainly scores points.  :)

As far as my own sewing goes...I finally tackled the buttonholes + buttons on the shirtdress (up top) and now it's finished! After spending time on all the other elements (including french seams), :) I always sort of feel like a project has the potential to be ruined by my sewing of the buttonholes. I think it worked out ok, though.  :)

Fabric :: striped voile by Moda via Fancy Tiger (great garment weight)
Pattern :: (not cute looking, but very useful) 80s Esprit Simplicity 6487 (lengthened top)

Love,
Jane
6 Comments
Elisa
4/12/2017 08:39:41 am

The shirtdress looks so nice! The fabric looks amazing this way. I was really happy that french seams were the second thing the seamstress who gave my sewing course showed us. In the beginning they feel like so much extra work but reading your article made me realize once again that they are totally worth it. Also they look really nice in the end, don't they?

Reply
Jane link
4/12/2017 09:21:44 am

They do look really nice! It sounds like you had a great teacher! I think that details like these are often left out of beginner classes in the interest of just getting people sewing and seeing some success...but it's the details that are the real education + motivation sometimes! :)

Reply
Jess link
4/12/2017 10:57:02 am

Lovely! Every once in a while I think it would be nice to have a serger, but then the lack of serging-as-seam-finishing pushes me to make french seams or hong kong bound seams, and it's always worth it in the end. Beautiful stripes!

Reply
Celia link
4/13/2017 04:20:26 pm

Question for you: if a pattern uses 1/2 inch seam allowance but doesn't specify seam type, I can turn that in to French Seams, right? By sewing it first at 1/4 inch and then again at 1/2 inch?

Reply
Jane link
4/14/2017 10:46:27 am

French seams work best with a standard seam allowance of 5/8 inch. In this case you can sew 1/4 inch first and then enclose that at 3/8 inch. The little bit bigger seam allowance on the second go gives a little leeway so that all the edges of the first seam get completely enclosed.

When I have a pattern that includes 1/2 seam allowances, I either decide if I have enough leeway in overall fit to accommodate the1/8 inch additional seam allowance...or I sew just a little bit smaller than 1/4 seam allowance on the first seam...or...just cut out the pattern with that tiny bit extra at seams where I want french seams.

Hope that makes sense! If not, please let me know! :)

Reply
Celia link
4/14/2017 03:35:22 pm

Yes! So helpful! Thank you, Jane.


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