When my girls were small, my simple wardrobe consisted most prominently of a pair of soft denim overalls, a pair of natural twill overalls + a selection of fitted tees. My love for overalls hasn't waned, so I decided to make a pair. I've had an idea of what my perfect pair would look like for years, but haven't decided to make them a part of my simple wardrobe until now.

I've made Marilla Walker's Roberts Collection jumpsuit in the past, so I knew that I liked the fit. I had some linen purchased with pants in mind about a year + a half ago. When the fabric arrived, (major pitfall of internet fabric buying) it was thicker than I'd anticipated. It is lovely linen though, + I thought it could make a good, wearable muslin of these overalls. So...pattern + fabric already in hand...it was easy to make thought into reality in one weekend.  :)

I wanted to make a few changes to the pattern, beginning with removing the pleats at the waist...which was an easy alteration once I understood what was happening. In case it might be helpful to anyone else (+ to remind myself for future reference), here's what I did:

A few of the other alterations I made to the pattern were to widen the straps + the corresponding junction at the top of the back piece, make loop ties, leave the side button opening off, shorten the length, widen the pant legs (+ 1 1/2 inches at the bottom outer edge of the pant leg + blended to the hip), + deepen the pockets by 1 1/4 inches. I lined the pockets with some scrap liberty fabric in order to decrease the bulk there.

These overalls have a slightly oversized fit, which I like. I prefer the bib tied up high, which also eliminates a bit of the dropped crotch look. This linen grows a bit with wear, so I like that the straps can be adjusted higher as the day goes on.  :) So happy to be wearing overalls again!

Pattern :: Marilla Walker's Roberts Collection
Fabric :: 2 meters, 55 inch wide natural linen from Lithuania

Love, 
Jane

Materials :: This treasured little stack of block print, batik, ikat, hand-dyed indigo fabric has been used for a few projects before. It mostly consists of leftovers from other sewing projects, but there are also scraps from a holely tea towel + a beloved top. I'm wondering if there might be just enough here to be pieced together into a scrappy quilted coat.

Inspiration :: This type of lovingly, pieced together, cozy coat stops me in my tracks each time I come across one. A statement piece for sure...each one of these beauties tells a story of fiber + stitches.

Pattern :: I bought the Sapporo coat pattern as soon as it came out, + I think that it could be a great shape for this project. The fact that I probably have almost everything to make this idea come together already (from fabric to thread to organic cotton batting) offers appeal...as does the dropping temperatures.  :) I would need quite a lot of pieced together yardage for this version, so I'm still debating...but the pattern is cut + I'm itching for a project...

Photos via links (top one mine).

Love,
​Jane

Today is a rare, moody, gray day that allows an inkling of a thought toward autumn to enter into my mind. Meghann Halfmoon's Delpy dress pattern sewn up in Foilage Canopy voile could be just the thing to bridge the gap between today + the days when the leaves start to fall. Now I'd feel breezy wearing it + carrying the raffia bag. Later I'd layer the Junegrass pullover over the dress + be cozy as can be. Two quicker makes for now + one that would keep me occupied until I'd wear it. ​

Another combination of materials, just for fun:

I wanted this dress to be drapey rather than crisp...loose + breezy...not too short. ​The pattern is Lou Box Dress 1 by the talented Beth of Sew DIY. It would be a great beginner pattern, since the fit is forgiving + the techniques are quite straight forward. The fabric is a rayon/linen blend with a lovely drape.

As far as alterations go, I left the button opening off the back, raised the front neckline by 2 inches, and lengthened the front + back by 6 inches. I was able to lengthen the front + back without purchasing more fabric by piecing the back (the top of the back has horizontal stripes). I enclosed all of the seams (with french seams as possible) and by hand sewing the facing of the "sleeves". The fabric ravels easily, so enclosed seams were definitely a priority (although, they are always my preference). My dress has no pockets, because I didn't like the look of them outside with the stripes + didn't want the bulk inside.

I like the lines of this dress a lot + look forward to trying it one size smaller, a little shorter, without such a pronounced drop back hem, + in a fabric with less drape. I love the fabric, but the weight of it makes the dress feel a little bit droopy.

I love to sew. Actually, I think what I love most is the dreaming + scheming about sewing...the imagining of shapes + fabric + drape + structure. I love the (theoretical) ability to create pieces just the way I want them to be (access to just the right fabrics can be an issue). Actual need can be an issue as well. 

The zero-waste mentality can be quite a barrier to creation for me. I don't always "need" + sometimes things don't turn out. 

Lately, I've been feeling like my creativity needs some room to breathe. I enjoy the challenge of sewing...the tangible results. So I'm creating...with mixed results. And at this very moment in time, I'm trying not to feel too bad about it. Each "not-quite-right" offers the opportunity for more creativity.  :)

Love,
Jane

I love simplicity, + I'm often on the lookout for the simplest way to do something. This is a step in that direction...one warm weather piece of sleepwear. I've found that Liberty of London fabric is lightweight, cool, durable, + quick drying. This dark fabric is also opaque. The Bantam pattern produces a loose fitting garment with a higher neckline that I like for sleeping. I wash the darks most often, so I have ample opportunity to wash this piece. All of our clothing is hung to dry + this piece...hung on a hanger in my bathroom, dries by bedtime, no problem.

One is enough!

Pattern :: Bantam (lengthened to dress length) from Merchant & Mills Workbook
Fabric :: Liberty of London made into a dress once before, picked apart + sewn again  :)

Love,
Jane

Once I bring a piece of clothing into my home, it is my responsibility. Hopefully, I've made a conscious decision to buy something that serves a purpose in my wardrobe + hopefully my plans work out the way I envisioned. In that case I will love + wear the piece over + over + over. I will repair it as needed...and keep right on wearing it.

If I decide that a piece is no longer necessary in my closet, I work to keep it in use + out of the waste stream. It might find its way to etsy or ebay as I feel that this is a good way to get it into the hands of someone who will keep it in use. Sending items to the thrift store is a last resort, since I know that they may end up clogging up a foreign clothing economy (though I appreciate finding treasures there).

When this vintage, cotton, striped, long-sleeved, button down didn't sell on etsy after a couple of weeks, I decided to turn it into a State style smock. The amazing Adrienne Antonson + her team make her versatile smocks from thrifted button-downs. What a great way to refashion a shirt in a way that results in very little left over waste (mine shown above). The sleeves get turned into giant pockets + the cuffs were used as the bias binding at the arm holes on mine. I'm 100% for supporting creative, independent, female owned, fair job creating, waste + sustainable materials conscious businesses...so I feel a bit conflicted about sewing + posting this. I love + want to support State, so I hope to own a State piece at some point!

Here are some subpar pictures of the before + after.  :) 

I really like refashioning things into new (or just a little bit different) things. Apparently I have a limited attention span, so it's great if one thing can become a different thing. A long sleeved top can be made into a shorter sleeved top...a dress can be turned into a less substantial dress, top or pajamas. Sewing a jacket from a well-loved dress + its scraps might be a little more time consuming, but also rewarding. Pants can be shortened or tapered. A jumpsuit can be made into pants. My made link holds a lot of simple refashions.

Bottom line: get it worn!  :)

Love,
​Jane

On a whim, I typed here that I would try to make any new clothing that I added to my wardrobe in 2017. It was a somewhat loose challenge (though not as loose as it became in my mind over the course of the year, now that I reread that post...hmmm...), because I already had clothes + didn't want to make a list of things to make just for the sake of it. While it probably would have been a whole lot more interesting to say that I was going to make a t-shirt in February + a pair of jeans in August...I just wanted to go with the flow...and not make things that I didn't need. This was an interesting exercise. Here's a bit of what I learned:

1. I made 17 pieces for myself this year. That's more than I needed. ​(My list will help decrease numbers.)  :)

2. The stash is a good place to start. My stash yielded 2 garments (+ 1 for Julia).

​3. As always, letting go of the unnecessary is freeing. I released a bunch of fabric + patterns from my stash to others who can use them (via etsy + donations to a craft reuse store). 

4. Zero-waste pertains to making clothing too. I was able to make 6 pieces from existing garments + scraps left over from other projects (+ 2 for Julia). No new materials were bought, and something better always resulted. (Yay!)

5. Trial + error are part of the process. 10 of this year's 17 made pieces remain in my current wardrobe (+ 1 remade into something for Julia). I don't feel very good about the 6 pieces that I made and didn't keep...and that's one of the major drawbacks I have with making my wardrobe. It can be difficult to know exactly how a certain fabric will work as pants...or how a certain style will sit on my particular body...until after it is made. Hopefully someone found those donated pieces + is enjoying wearing them...but I still feel like they were wasteful. Bottom line: I don't need pieces in my small wardrobe that don't earn their spots.

6. I wasn't great at sticking to this challenge. I bought some thrifted pieces...a few fair pieces...and one pair of not verifiably fair shoes...without trying to make them first. I couldn't find suitable sweatshirt fabric + matching ribbing...I knew t-shirts would not come out looking great...and I found two pairs of vintage pants that are durable + fit. No promises were made about buying nothing ready-made, so I don't feel too bad about this...although, again, I know that the list will decrease the numbers.

7. It is still difficult to find suitable garment fabric...especially ethical fabric. 

8. I could be a pattern minimalist.  :) Two patterns yielded 6 of my kept garments.

9. As I've known for quite some time, it is easier to sew for warmer weather rather than colder weather. I've knit sweaters, but just haven't found a keeper. Out of the 11 pieces of clothing that I am currently wearing for winter (+ shoes), only 2 are handmade. My current summer collection includes 6 handmade pieces out of 11 total (+ shoes).

10. Trying to make something just to say that I've made it holds no great appeal for me. My goal is to have clothing that I like to wear...whether it is handmade, thrifted, or supports a maker doing good work. Some pieces (in my opinion) just look better when made with access to tools that I don't have access to + am not willing to invest in...a cover stitch machine or industrial machines. It would be great for local fabric stores to offer access to/sharing opportunities for these (+ I would imagine some do). On the other hand, making some garments by hand can result in a higher quality finish.

11. Sometimes sewing saves money + sometimes it doesn't. The main thing, for me is that it fits my budget + results in a quality piece that I will wear.

12. I'll continue to make, because I like to do it. For a bunch a reasons, however, I don't think that an entirely handmade wardrobe is my preferred version of a fair wardrobe. I still think that thrift is the best source of clothing in terms of "fair". It already exists + the waste that came from making it has already been spent. We can often try on thrift to see if it suits us. There is so much pre-worn clothing out there that we could surely clothe ourselves for our entire lifetimes with it. Trading, repurposing + reinventing what already exists is good for the environment, our wallets, + our creativity. 

13. Making clothing requires skill. We all wear clothing...so we all depend on garment workers. Perfectly sewn zippers, button holes, and topstitching require an expertise that I have not perfected in all of my years sewing. Garment workers deserve compensation for their skills that will allow them to shelter, feed, clothe, educate and provide health care for themselves and their families.

made in 2017 (for myself) ::
pants- 5- green, clay tencel, red, block print sarouelles, ​rayon sarouelles
jackets- 2- denim linen, little patchwork
dress- 1- stripe
shorts- 3- clay tencel, denim tencel, voile
top- 3- white linen, block print, voile
jumpsuit- 1- denim tencel
pj's- 1- black liberty
robe- 1- linen

Most of my 2017 makes + some more of my lessons learned can be found under the "made" tab on the right.  :)

Love,
​Jane

Bento bags have their origins in Japan (like so many useful, beautiful, simple designs). I love their possibilities in relation to a zero-waste lifestyle. Although a bandana tucked into my bag works well for impromptu bulk buys, a bento's bag shape is a bit more spill proof. In this season of giving, I am really looking forward to using these bento bags for reusable, zero-waste gift wrap!

SweetKM's bento bag pattern came out just in time for Christmas giving +/or wrapping! I scooped it up the moment it was offered, because I've been wanting a pattern like this for years. The pattern offers a variety of sizes to make, and works up beautifully. I love that all of the edges are enclosed, so it will wash well. While this bento is the smallest size, I look forward to making a few in larger sizes too. Putting together PDF patterns is not always my favorite activity, so I really like this one. I didn't actually print out the pattern, but instead simply used the provided measurements to mark + cut the fabric.

For gift wrap, I like to use truly opaque fabrics...which often means darker fabrics, but heavier linen or quilting cotton would also work well. (This fabric is from an old favorite shirt.) The pieces needed for each bento are on the larger side, so many of my scraps are not quite large enough. Instead of buying fabric especially for these bentos, I plan to use what I have + to piece together the bits that are too small. I love using every bit of these gorgeous fabrics, + I think that pieced bentos will feel quite special.

These bags would make lovely gifts as well as wrapping. Bentos could be used as project bags for individual craft projects, lunch sacks, bulk grocery shopping bags, travel sacks to separate laundry, toiletries or shoes, or even as a purse. Of course one could be used for all of the above!  :)

I'm in love with these bentos for gift wrap + finally think that I've found a wrapping to love (and reuse) for years to come! 

A few other ideas for wrapping zero-waste:  
​-reuse packaging collected thoughout the year (my favorite is brown paper...tied up with string)
-calendar pages
-children's artwork
-baggu bags
-last year someone's birthday inspired a magic gift box (a nice sturdy box that once opened acquired a new gift + was tied with its bow once more) (my laziness sometimes = laughs)
​-furoshiki
-bandana 
-newspaper
-accent with greenery, cinnamon sticks, tags made from last year's Christmas cards...
​
Love,
Jane

Japanese sewing pattern books are a wonderful source of simple patterns + inspiration. When I mentioned using one for Julia's pajama pants, I was asked if I might share some of my favorite books...so here are my two current favorites. Happy Homemade :: Sew Chic contains a few shapes that I might like to try at some point. My favorite pattern is for the pants on the cover.

In order to trace the patterns, I use compostable parchment paper or tissue paper as I usually have some on hand. Don't forget to check if seam allowances are included on the pattern sheets or not (often they are not with these patterns, because smaller pieces fit better on the sheets).

I think this jacket would be a perfect summer layer to throw into my bag + could be worn over just about anything.

I've written about Japanese sewing pattern books a few times before. This is maybe the most comprehensive past post. They are one of my most favorite sources for little girl's clothing patterns in particular.

The jumper on the right is just the sort of easy, simple shape that I like...and the tunic on the left could make a lovely top as well.

Since I don't have everyday access to brick + mortar shop where I can browse through these books, my library is the most accessible place to look. Our library system has a small selection, but both of these were requested through interlibrary loan.

Stylish Dress Book also contains a few patterns that I'm intrigued by.

Amazon can be a good source of both the books + peeks inside the books. Another good source is Etsy. This shop + this one in particular offer a lot of books + peeks...but there are others as well. Search "Japanese pattern book".

This dress looks put together while having the most comfortable looking shape.

The shape of this top is appealing as well...simple + comfortable.

These two books have been translated into English, while some of the others are in Japanese. All of the diagrams + numbers are simple enough to follow in either language (in my opinion).

Love, 
​Jane