I'm not sure what sparked it, but suddenly so many independent pattern brands are expanding their size charts. It's exciting to see the inclusivity + buzz around it all. Pattern grading involves grading up + down from a particular size. As the grading gets further + further away from the original size, it can become increasingly distorted. This process along with the fact that certain proportions + measurements (like bust, thigh + bicep circumferences) need to be taken into account...not to mention that every body is built differently...makes increasing the sizing of patterns a time consuming process. It's exciting that the independent sewing community is recognizing the value of enabling more + more people to exercise their creativity + to wear clothing that fits!

For our purposes here today, I'm going to set the parameters for standard/expected sizing at around 32-44 inch bust measurements. Many of us know that we cannot always expect even this much inclusivity, but what I'm looking for is an extended level of inclusivity. It's about time!

Anna Allen :: patterns sizes up to 22
Blueprints :: busts up to 50 inches
Cashmerette :: sizes 12-28
Closet Case :: sizes up to 20 + extending (take the survey)
Colette + Seamwork :: up to size 26
Deer & Doe :: French sizes up to 52
Elbe Textiles :: currently working to extend size range up to a 52 inch bust
Fancy Tiger :: sizes up to 20
Grainline :: currently working to extend up to size 30 (participate in their survey)
​Leisl + Co :: up to size 20
Helen's Closet :: currently includes sizes up to 22 :: working to extend up to size 30
​Made by Rae :: bust sizes up to 51 inches
Marilla Walker :: bust sizes up to 49 inches
Megan Nielsen :: newly updated patterns up to size 30
Muse :: up to 50 inch bust + D cup
Named :: up to size 18
Paper Theory :: up to size 20
P4P :: up to 54 inch bust
Sew House Seven :: up to size 20
Sew Liberated :: up to size 24
Schnittchen :: up to 53 1/2 inch bust
100 Acts of Sewing :: up to 50 inch bust
Sew DIY :: up to 51 inch bust
Wiksten :: the newest pattern includes sizing up to size 22

For lots more wonderful independent pattern designers (not exhaustive by any means)...many more of which may join these ranks in the future...this list. Also more plus sized mentions here.

Love, 
​Jane

It started with a very tempting email about the pending release of a new jumpsuit. The cost of that gorgeous jumpsuit was beyond my budget + I already had a sewing pattern capable of yielding a similar shape. The temptation + the existence of that pattern reveal that I have an attraction to this shape...so going ahead with making seemed smart enough. I like that this shape is loose + comfortable...that I could potentially wear it over a long-sleeved tee +/or under a cardigan now...and on its own later. A fabric that I liked + had been waiting for just the right project to purchase...seemed just right. This jumpsuit took shape quickly with all those pieces in place. 

I'm not quite sure about the results being flattering on my body. The extremely cold weather hasn't really allowed me to wear it yet either...so we'll see. This uncertainty always makes me wonder if it would have just been better to spend the money on the original...with the option to return the whole thing, if it didn't suit. My version cost a whole lot less, but now the materials have been spent + I'm tasked with getting them worn one way or another. More imperfection.

Sewing pattern :: Butterick 6312
Fabric :: hemp/organic cotton
Alterations :: Added 1 inch to the length at waist (because I've sewn this pattern before). Button opening at back instead of zipper. Added 4 inches to hem. Rounded neckline. Bias binding at neck + reverse bias binding at sleeves. Drawstring at waist.

Love,
​Jane

It started as a little pile of scrappy indigo cotton + linen saved from projects + clothing past. I thought these scraps could possibly become a jacket, because they would need to be pieced together + backed (quilt style) in order to cover all the raw edges. The pieces were sewn together based on a sewing pattern I already had...all the time I was aware that I was having a hard time picturing myself actually wearing the resulting garment. For some reason, I just wanted to make it anyway. 

I basted the quilted pieces together, and it just didn't work as a garment. So, the project was put aside for a bit. I decided that turning it into a Grainline Tamarack Jacket, with its closer fit, was worth a try. The pieces I'd sewn didn't exactly match up with the new pattern pieces...so pieces were added here, bits were removed there, and the hand quilting was repaired at the edges. The work was slow, but it was also (mostly) kind of fun. I usually like to zip through projects quickly, but this time I made an effort to slow down + enjoy the process. An hour or two spent working on it here or there made progress. 

Pattern :: Grainline Studio Tamarack Jacket
Fabric :: Leftover bits of linen + cotton from garments + projects past
Notes :: 
​-No batting. I like the weight of the two layers of fabric as is.
-Sleeves are probably a little shorter than the pattern's (just where I like them)
-No curves in the sides of the hemline
-All of the inside seams + outside edges are covered with bias binding, which gives this jacket a very satisfyingly clean result.
-I like the jacket without snaps or zipper, but may change my mind. At the moment, I'm picturing wearing it open or tied at the waist.
-I'm not sure if it looks super crafty, but I like it anyway.  :)

I think much of the appeal of making this jacket was that I knew those scraps could come together to make a complete garment. I wanted to see just what those offcuts could become...because they didn't need to be waste.

Love,
Jane

I'm in the final stages of finishing a project. I think I might actually like this one + will hopefully love wearing it. All of this has me thinking about what my next project could be. The search for inspiration has revealed a few new discoveries in the independent sewing pattern department. (Exciting!) 

Common Stitch is one of those discoveries that has me dreaming of a new linen jumpsuit, voile summer pajamas, or strappy sundress. I could definitely see myself happily wearing these simple pieces over + over. In addition to sewing patterns, Common Stitch offers project kits + finished garments.

It is so exciting to find a new sewing pattern designs I instantly connect with...and The Assembly Line is one of those collections. I'm loving the simple, straightforward shapes...the beautiful colors...and the sturdy fabrics these pattern are made up in. These pieces look wearable + trend bucking, while still offering interesting details like the wide elastic cuffs + raglan sleeves.

Elbe Textiles is a pattern collection that I found + made as quickly as I could. Again the styling + fabrics chosen to show off these designs connected with me on a visceral level. I would replicate that jacket exactly, if I could locate the fabric.  :) I sewed up the pants right away + feel pretty excited about the possibilities of making them for others in my tribe as well (even Mr. Tribe!). I've been working on a version of the jacket, but think I'll need to try again in a different fabric. Elbe Textile's designer, Lauren, is interested in zero-waste, natural dyes + creative use of textiles which is really fun to follow along with.

One glimpse of Paper Theory's Kabuki Tee + I was smitten. The simplest top becomes something special with those seams. The LB Pullover is captivating as well...a sculptural, linen funnel neck...brilliant! Tara designs Paper Theory patterns as a tool to escape fast fashion, but not fashion altogether.

Pattern Fantastique makes patterns so architectural that they feel like wearable art. Nita-Jane makes the most amazing garments with her patterns. I don't usually want to replicate a garment fabric + all, but she tempts such a desire. That pattern mixing + well worn denim!

It is so exciting to see all of the independent designers out there making patterns that feel very personal...and in turn feel personal to many that identify with that aesthetic. No more are we confined to the big pattern books at the big fabric stores (which, I admit, could occupy me for hours in the past). I am so grateful for all the creativity these designers work so hard to share + am happy to support their efforts when I find a design that speaks to me + could earn a spot in my small wardrobe.

Lots more independent pattern makers here. All lovely photos via the designers.

Love,
​Jane

Sometimes something appears in the donation box that seems to have a little more possibility. Jo bought a little cropped jacket from the thrift store a couple of years ago, but just didn't end up wearing it. She was ready to return it to the thrift store for someone else to try. 

At the same time, I was trying to find something (already in our possession) to cover a couple of pillow forms...to use as floor pillows. The sturdy woven fabric on that jacket just might work. A few unpicked stitches + some creative cutting yielded a few large enough pieces of fabric to cover a pillow.

All that was left of the jacket after the pillow cover was the sleeves + a couple of strips of fabric from the front facings...just enough for a bag. The cuffs became the top of the bag...the caps of the sleeves were just right for pockets...and those strips became the strap. This bag received a lining of leftover fabric from a top. Leftover fabric from my robe lines the pockets.

Sometimes I wonder if it is better to let a piece stay what it is rather than cutting it up. This jacket had already found itself in the thrift store (at least) once, + the cut of this jacket was a little out of date. In this case I thought that it was probably ok to make it into something else. The goal is to get it used...and these will be!

Love, 
​Jane

When my girls were small, my simple wardrobe consisted most prominently of a pair of soft denim overalls, a pair of natural twill overalls + a selection of fitted tees. My love for overalls hasn't waned, so I decided to make a pair. I've had an idea of what my perfect pair would look like for years, but haven't decided to make them a part of my simple wardrobe until now.

I've made Marilla Walker's Roberts Collection jumpsuit in the past, so I knew that I liked the fit. I had some linen purchased with pants in mind about a year + a half ago. When the fabric arrived, (major pitfall of internet fabric buying) it was thicker than I'd anticipated. It is lovely linen though, + I thought it could make a good, wearable muslin of these overalls. So...pattern + fabric already in hand...it was easy to make thought into reality in one weekend.  :)

I wanted to make a few changes to the pattern, beginning with removing the pleats at the waist...which was an easy alteration once I understood what was happening. In case it might be helpful to anyone else (+ to remind myself for future reference), here's what I did:

A few of the other alterations I made to the pattern were to widen the straps + the corresponding junction at the top of the back piece, make loop ties, leave the side button opening off, shorten the length, widen the pant legs (+ 1 1/2 inches at the bottom outer edge of the pant leg + blended to the hip), + deepen the pockets by 1 1/4 inches. I lined the pockets with some scrap liberty fabric in order to decrease the bulk there.

These overalls have a slightly oversized fit, which I like. I prefer the bib tied up high, which also eliminates a bit of the dropped crotch look. This linen grows a bit with wear, so I like that the straps can be adjusted higher as the day goes on.  :) So happy to be wearing overalls again!

Pattern :: Marilla Walker's Roberts Collection
Fabric :: 2 meters, 55 inch wide natural linen from Lithuania

Love, 
Jane

Materials :: This treasured little stack of block print, batik, ikat, hand-dyed indigo fabric has been used for a few projects before. It mostly consists of leftovers from other sewing projects, but there are also scraps from a holely tea towel + a beloved top. I'm wondering if there might be just enough here to be pieced together into a scrappy quilted coat.

Inspiration :: This type of lovingly, pieced together, cozy coat stops me in my tracks each time I come across one. A statement piece for sure...each one of these beauties tells a story of fiber + stitches.

Pattern :: I bought the Sapporo coat pattern as soon as it came out, + I think that it could be a great shape for this project. The fact that I probably have almost everything to make this idea come together already (from fabric to thread to organic cotton batting) offers appeal...as does the dropping temperatures.  :) I would need quite a lot of pieced together yardage for this version, so I'm still debating...but the pattern is cut + I'm itching for a project...

Photos via links (top one mine).

Love,
​Jane

Today is a rare, moody, gray day that allows an inkling of a thought toward autumn to enter into my mind. Meghann Halfmoon's Delpy dress pattern sewn up in Foilage Canopy voile could be just the thing to bridge the gap between today + the days when the leaves start to fall. Now I'd feel breezy wearing it + carrying the raffia bag. Later I'd layer the Junegrass pullover over the dress + be cozy as can be. Two quicker makes for now + one that would keep me occupied until I'd wear it. ​

Another combination of materials, just for fun:

I wanted this dress to be drapey rather than crisp...loose + breezy...not too short. ​The pattern is Lou Box Dress 1 by the talented Beth of Sew DIY. It would be a great beginner pattern, since the fit is forgiving + the techniques are quite straight forward. The fabric is a rayon/linen blend with a lovely drape.

As far as alterations go, I left the button opening off the back, raised the front neckline by 2 inches, and lengthened the front + back by 6 inches. I was able to lengthen the front + back without purchasing more fabric by piecing the back (the top of the back has horizontal stripes). I enclosed all of the seams (with french seams as possible) and by hand sewing the facing of the "sleeves". The fabric ravels easily, so enclosed seams were definitely a priority (although, they are always my preference). My dress has no pockets, because I didn't like the look of them outside with the stripes + didn't want the bulk inside.

I like the lines of this dress a lot + look forward to trying it one size smaller, a little shorter, without such a pronounced drop back hem, + in a fabric with less drape. I love the fabric, but the weight of it makes the dress feel a little bit droopy.

I love to sew. Actually, I think what I love most is the dreaming + scheming about sewing...the imagining of shapes + fabric + drape + structure. I love the (theoretical) ability to create pieces just the way I want them to be (access to just the right fabrics can be an issue). Actual need can be an issue as well. 

The zero-waste mentality can be quite a barrier to creation for me. I don't always "need" + sometimes things don't turn out. 

Lately, I've been feeling like my creativity needs some room to breathe. I enjoy the challenge of sewing...the tangible results. So I'm creating...with mixed results. And at this very moment in time, I'm trying not to feel too bad about it. Each "not-quite-right" offers the opportunity for more creativity.  :)

Love,
Jane