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fair/make :: bags

1/14/2021

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industry of all nations x mafia bags 
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all well workshop
A few fair options for sweet bags that could come in handy for that weekly grocery store expedition or maybe just on a walk. The ready-made bag on the left is a collaboration between Industry of All Nations + Mafia Bags. It is made in California from upcycled boating sails + salvaged climbing rope.

The bag on the right was made from a vintage quilt with All Well Workshop's Full Moon Bag pattern. Amy generously offers this pattern free with her newsletter sign-up.
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museo studio via vestige
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sara kirsten
Whether worn across the body, around the waist or slung over the shoulder these bags are like the pocket every outfit needs. Museo Studio makes a generously sized beauty out of vintage quilt pieces. Sara Kirsten's sewing pattern would look as fantastic made out of leftover scraps or found textiles as it does made from sturdy canvas. This kit from Little House Seamstress is another great option.

I always appreciate that there are so many ways to choose fair! Supporting thoughtful makers is a wonderful pleasure. Making our own simultaneously offers clarifying insight into what it takes to create useful things + affirming satisfaction. It's great to support independent pattern makers as well.  :)

Vive les créateurs!
fair/make :: dresses
fair/make :: jumpsuits

All lovely photos via links.

Love,
Jane
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made :: jacquard jacket

12/22/2020

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This jacket was a slow make...not because it was especially time consuming to sew. I just took my time making decisions...like what pattern to use (this was my original plan), whether or not to add a lining, whether or not to add a collar, and what closure method to employ. The fabric felt extra precious + that increased the pressure to get this project just right. ​
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A note on this fabric :: I haven't seen the actual structure of this fabric discussed online (I'm sure it has been, I just haven't come across it), so I thought I'd mention it here. It feels luxurious like I thought it would...soft, with some heft + weight. The reverse side, however, is a very delicate, loosely woven cotton cheesecloth. The wadding is just cotton yarn laid in rows + tacked only by the visible quilt lines. When the fabric is cut, these yarn strands are loose + able to shift within the open square. The reverse side of my fabric showed pilling after a single prewash + line-dry. 

These factors led to the feeling that this fabric needed to be lined, which was not planned. I contemplated whether or not to quilt the whole jacket to this lining. I would have liked to quilt it by hand, but couldn't find any floss to match. At the moment, only the pockets are quilted to their linings. I will see how shifty the rayon/linen lining is with wear.
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Pattern modifications :: I used the Grainline Tamarack Jacket pattern, straightened the hemline + lengthened the body a bit. A lining was added. To keep the jacket from flaring out at the hem, I added 2 inch wide elastic at the back hem. A collar + patch pockets were also added.

Snaps were used as the closure method. I get nervous about the durability of the snaps on this delicate fabric, but I think it gives the jacket a nice finish whether or not I use them. 

Pattern :: Grainline Tamarack Jacket (modified)
Fabric :: Merchant & Mills Jacquard cotton
Lining :: rayon/linen from Joann


Love,
​Jane
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made :: overalls again

12/17/2020

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So, I just couldn't seem to make myself wear my first pair of overalls made from this pattern. They just felt too big. I decided to make another pair with some fabric that I already had...my favorite indigo linen cotton. 

I made this pair 1 1/2 sizes smaller than my measurements called for according to the pattern. It's simple enough to look at the finished garment measurements to know that there will be sufficient ease. It's just a little difficult to know exactly how much ease would be desired in a piece like overalls. I did want mine to be a little bit oversized...and while I could still size down in these...I like these overalls much better than the first pair I made from this pattern.
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(I couldn't be much more uncomfortable in front of the camera, but I do so enjoy seeing patterns made up + on bodies...so I feel obliged to contribute my own for what it's worth.) 

I don't trace my patterns, so I appreciate that this pattern was nested for the most part...meaning that I could just cut it down to the smaller size with only minimal need for piecing + taping at the curves. I made this pattern without modification.

A little of my Liberty stash was used for the insides. Liberty Tana Lawn is some of the sturdiest fabric I've sewn with, even as it is so lightweight. It will stand up to all the use these pockets will get + not add any bulk. I've lined the pockets of all my overalls with Liberty. I wear this pair (with this modification) about once per week year round + they've stood up well to all the wearing + washing.
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These overalls sat waiting for their hardware for a while. I feel like these closures are a bit heavy duty for the linen fabric, but I couldn't really see a way around using them since I didn't want to use buttons + button holes and needed something easy enough to do + undo throughout the day.  ;) I admire these linen overalls that use metal closures, so I felt encouraged to give these a try.

Pattern :: Merchant & Mills Harlene
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Fabric :: indigo linen cotton (bought locally)
Hardware :: Citron Jeans

Love,
Jane
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simple gifts :: handmade

11/19/2020

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hat
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candles
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reusable bag
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waist pack
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game
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dog coat
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soft friend
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treats
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calendar
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basket
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bread
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mask
Handmade gifts are my favorite ones to give. It's fun to think of what each special recipient will like + then to pour love into every stitch or stroke. My goal is always to give simple, lovely + useful gifts.  Just a few thoughts ::

A hat, scarf or mittens for getting outside this winter.

A soft friend for keeping them company during stay-at-home times.

A candle to bring light to the darkness.

A treat to enjoy while on zoom.

A reusable bag for a little zero-waste-ness during quick grocery runs.

A calendar to remind them that they are loved every day of the year.

A fanny pack for treasures found on long winter walks.

A basket to hold a plant friend or bits + bobs.

A game to foster connection.

A loaf of something sweet or savory to leave on their doorstep.

A coat to keep them cozy too.

​A fresh mask for health.

All lovely photos via links. 

Love, 
Jane
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made :: overalls

11/5/2020

3 Comments

 
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My overalls are finished! This pair uses the Merchant & Mills Harlene sewing pattern. I made it without modifications, except shortening the length. (I should shorten the straps a bit too.) This pattern features a classic overalls shape meant to fit a bit oversized. The darts at the back waist (shown in the bottom left photo) give a little shape to the backside.

This pattern takes some time to sew, but offers some really professional feeling finishes in the end. Hammering in the hardware at the end made me feel like I'd made something substantial with my own two hands.

The fit of the these overalls is maybe a bit looser than I'd prefer in the end. It could also be that the fabric is a bit stiffer than I'd prefer. Finding just the right fabric is often my biggest barrier to sewing. If I end up with a piece of clothing that feels a little bit off, I've learned that it would just be better not to make it. Something else will always be chosen to wear instead. Anyway...my intention is to wear these overalls in (hopefully like Joanna's partner's jacket) + to love them. I love the pattern + am dreaming of what fabric I might make them in next...maybe lighter fabric + a size smaller.  :)

Sewing pattern : Merchant & Mills Harlene
Fabric : Merchant & Mills 8 oz. dark denim 
Hardware : Citron Jeans

​Love,
Jane

p.s. please ignore my wet mess of hair that I did not foresee making an appearance here.  :)
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pattern printing

10/26/2020

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My overalls are in progress (actually they are just waiting for their hardware- yay!). The pattern that I used will be available as a printed pattern, but I just couldn't wait to make mine.  :) We don't have a printer (so printing already has a cost), and this is a large pattern to glue together...so I thought this might be a good time to try a pattern printer. 

I printed a sewing pattern at a local copy shop in the past + ended up paying over $30 for a pants pattern. (yikes!) This time I did a limited search for sewing pattern printing + came across these printers: 
  • ​pdfplotting :: USA based, seem to be a little more complicated to upload to, have to print at least three patterns at a time, seems to only ship to USA
  • patternsy :: UK based, have to print two sheets at a time (which my single pattern accomplished), ships worldwide
  • sew yyc :: Canada based, seems to only ship to Canada

My choice was patternsy. I sure would have liked to use a service closer to home, but I didn't have three patterns to print. Patternsy seemed to be a simple service to use + ships to my location.

Once I decided to use patternsy, I was able to upload my pattern easily. Mark texted me as soon as I placed my order to let me know that my one pattern covered the required two pages + that my order was set to go. It took 13 days from order to arrival (in the USA) + cost $18. The paper that it is printed on is tissue weight, but I would say that it feels a bit more sturdy than the classic brown pattern paper. I like that it folds up compactly.

I really appreciate that patternsy understands sewists' needs + desires. They can even untangle overlapped pattern pieces that would normally require further pattern tracing. (fantastic!) 


Using a pattern printer was not cheap.
My PDF pattern cost $11.72 
Printing + shipping cost $18.23
Total cost :: $29.95 USD
 
If I waited for the paper pattern to be available:
The cost of the paper pattern + shipping from the UK would cost $48.18.
Merchant & Mills patterns in the USA cost $20 + shipping.

So...my conclusions:
Merchant & Mills patterns are pricey...but probably appropriately priced.
Maybe this solution doesn't seem too outlandish in context?  
I am going to use this pattern more than once...more than twice...so I'm happy.  :)

Love,
Jane
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planning :: denim overalls

10/22/2020

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I love overalls. When Merchant & Mills released their Harlene pattern, I immediately started imagining a pair of my own. I would wear any of the overalls pictured on the pattern page, but I think I will make a denim pair first. It's always hard to choose fabric online, when it can't be felt or seen in person. 
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Pale denim is what I'm often drawn to these days, but I also find these deep, dark, monochromatic navy looks lovely + inspiring. One of the ways I look forward to wearing the dark denim overalls I hope to create is layered over a fitted navy tee or maybe a heavier navy top (a sweater? or sweatshirt?).
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With a little investigation, I came across this jumpsuit in Merchant & Mills 8 ounce denim. I really like that the denim lightens + looks softer + a bit worn in after repeated washing + wearing (as noted in the description). I took a leap of faith + ordered it from Oak Fabrics. (I've now washed it three times + am still left with blue hands after handling it...ugh.)

I'm not sure these types of posts are interesting for anyone else, but seeing all of these building blocks of a project together in one place is really useful for me. I like having a visual record of the slow + thoughtful process of collecting inspiration for a single garment. I want each of my pieces of clothing to be thoughtfully + intentionally made...especially the ones that I make. I hope that the entire making process deepens my love for + connection with the resulting piece.  

All lovely images via links.

Love,
Jane
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practice

10/1/2020

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As I practiced daily watercolor painting for 30 days, I kept a few notes of the things it was teaching me. Every day I could feel that I was learning or relearning things about the water, paint + brush. The practice was teaching me deeper lessons as well.

Here are a few more of the notes I made along the way:

  • I recognize painting as self care...while I'm doing it. I'm not only exercising my creativity because I know that it will be good for me. I truly feel that the daily return to paper, paint, water + brush is good for my soul.

  • This practice is increasing my ability to trust my creative instincts. This so easily translates to the larger concept of trusting myself...trusting myself to find my way.

  • Trust that good things can come out of uncertainty. (Wow, this is meaningful for me to read again today with new uncertainty on the horizon.)

  • A little consistent practice gives rise to a little confidence. It's similar to cooking. We can hone our skills one at a time, and we get to judge what is "good" for ourselves. With time + practice, we can build our confidence + our ability to create tacos or pasta that we love.

Maybe some of these lessons seem obvious. They are the sort of things we might offer our children as encouragement to practice an instrument or skill. But it felt pretty amazing to observe these thoughts coming to mind spontaneously during my own voluntary practice. This practice was not mandated by a parent, teacher or boss. This practice was my idea. It was an open-ended invitation that I gave myself...to interrupt the duties of the day...to exercise a different part of my brain + body...to create...to sit + to linger.

As the days wore on, I gave myself the grace to paint for 30 days...but maybe not all within 30 days. The goal remained intact, but the terms were meant to free rather than to bind. I am kind to myself. I trust myself. I create.

Love,
​Jane
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improving

9/29/2020

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Yesterday, I had to get some warmer clothes out for our walk. In the process, I came across this jacket that I made from my sewing scraps. I've had a couple of improvements in mind for this zero-waste jacket since before I finished it the first time.

Today, I finally took them on. I'm really liking how these ties give the jacket just a little shape, and pockets are always a good thing! I'm down to just a very few little scraps of these fabrics now. Hoping I can patch this jacket with them forevermore.  :)
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Alright (light) jacket weather, I guess I'm ready for you + some cider donuts. 

Love,
​Jane
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daring

9/17/2020

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To create, one must first question everything. ~Eileen Gray
I don't believe this is exclusively true. Often wonderful things are created when we just go for it. But seeing this quote right after deciding to finally cut into this fabric seemed fitting.  :)
If you are a sewist, I'm sure you've had the experience of finding it hard to cut into a precious piece of fabric. I bought this piece at least a year ago, with one project in mind (which I can't even remember). Then I had my doubts that I'd picked just the right project...and I considered other plans. I think I've narrowed it down again, and today was supposed to be the day that I finally committed + cut into that gorgeous fabric. Then I went to get the fabric + couldn't remember if I'd pre-washed it...realized that I can't tumble dry it...and now it will be another couple of days until I can actually cut into it.
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Oh well. Instead I will patiently prewash + line dry my fabric...as quickly as possible. I will put my most closely related inspiration in one place (above). I will look through my scrap bin to see if I can pull something to use for binding. And I will keep all my fingers + toes crossed hoping that I will do this project justice...eventually.  :)

Love,
​Jane
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