It's gotten hot + stayed hot this week. ​Breezy shorts that fit were on my mind. A thrifted rayon skirt found in Jo's donation bag seemed like it might be up for a transformation into a cute pair of shorts. Just enough fabric!  :)

I took the picture on the left to show the elastic I used...cut off the top of a pair of shorts that were beyond repair. When I unpicked the stitching to expose the elastic, I had to smile at the already pieced together elastic that it was. Just another layer of zero-waste.  :)

Sewing pattern :: Common Stitch Bellbird shorts 
Fabric :: thrifted rayon skirt, well worn + ready to be passed on by Jo  :)

Modifications :: Cut a size smaller than size chart recommendation (glad I did). Added waist band to the top rather than folding the top down for the elastic. I wanted a higher waist + this also allows them to feel a bit longer.

Notes for next time :: Size down two sizes instead of one + add an inch to the top of all the pattern pieces.

Feels good to have so little waste at the end of a project. This will be added to our fabric scrap bag that goes to Goodwill to be made into things like rags, insulation + carpet padding. Thank you, Goodwill for getting materials where they can be reused!

Love,
​Jane

I made these overalls two + a half years ago. I wear them with tanks in the summer + all layered up in the winter. They are probably my most worn make at the moment, but they (like most things) were not perfect. 

I really liked the way these overalls looked...from the front. I like the ties + the Liberty lined pockets. The rise + the length are just how I like them. When I first made these, they were a struggle to get off + on...so I lowered the back (Beaton style). Since I admire those Beaton overalls so much, the back felt acceptable...but...it also felt a bit weird. I was always trying to make sure that the gap back there was folded over + secure. 

Today, I finally found a piece of leftover elastic + cinched up the back a bit. I like the loose-ish fit, so I left a little play in the waist. And it looks SO much better back there now!  :)

Elastic has been a helpful fitting friend of mine. I often use it to bring shape more than to provide functional stretch. I used it on this straight jumpsuit to bring a little waist definition...on this jacket to coax a cocoon shape...and here to close the back gap.  :)

These little tweaks are often total game changers in making my pieces just that much more enjoyable to wear! Make it better...get it worn!
​
Love,
​Jane

I actually enjoyed sewing jeans with this pattern. The sizing works for me without much alteration (lucky, I know). It is a totally manageable pattern taken one step at a time. A couple of things I purposely did in order to make my first experience with sewing jeans easier were:

1. choosing a lighter weight denim which is helpful in getting the layers through the sewing machine
2. purchasing the right sewing machine needle
3. choosing non-constrasting thread which makes topstitching less stressful

Notes + alterations: 

• cut one size smaller than the one my measurements put me in according to the pattern...the finished measurements listed on the pattern match my measurements exactly on the size I chose to cut
• left back pockets off until the jeans were finished so that I could choose the size + placement...enlarged the pockets
• did a flat felled seam on the inner leg seam + as far as I could up the outer side seams...in order to neaten the cuff fold ups
• side seam allowances sewn to 2 cm instead of the 1.5 recommended (baste outer seams first...try them on + sew seams to fit) (I love the wide seam allowances which offer both strength + room for fitting)

Pattern :: Merchant & Mills Harlene (<<well-priced for the USA)
Fabric :: Merchant & Mills 8 oz. dark denim 
​Needle :: chrome denim needles (worked a charm)
Thread :: regular all-purpose thread in navy (makes mistakes almost invisible)
Button :: Citron Jeans (came with the toolkit)

It's pretty cool to know how each + every seam on the jeans I'm wearing came together. And as always, sewing gives me such respect for garment workers! Make a pair of jeans + then consider how much a pair of jeans in the store should cost.  ;)

Love,
Jane

My big goal this month is to make jeans! Yikes! This is a piece of clothing I never really thought I could make. I made my wedding dress, but I've avoided zip flies. :) The sheer number of pairs of readymade jeans I need to try on in order to find one that fits is enough to deter me. It would take a miracle for me to make jeans that fit. (I might be talking myself out of this right now- ha!) 

I'd always thought that jeans were made, at least in part, with special equipment. A few years ago, however, the sewing community just sort of seemed to decide that jeans were the next thing to tackle. (Not that adventurous sewists hadn't been sewing them all along.) Patterns + denim started to appear more + more. So many talented sewists have made amazing pairs of jeans, but I didn't really feel the need to tackle them myself.

It was those Merchant & Mills overalls I made recently that got me thinking...as a successful project often does. That pattern, taken one step at a time, produced a pretty professional looking end product. The idea of having a pants pattern at the ready that fits + that I can make again + again is intriguing. And I'm feeling both inspired + emboldened by all the amazing handmade jeans out there.

So...I'm going to give jeans a try.​ My favorite patterns are:

• Merchant & Mills Heroine jeans pattern :: because I think their shape has a cool, vintage vibe...I like the high waist...and they look like they could be quite comfortable
• Megan Nielsen's Dawn jeans view B :: because I like the high waist, the more fitted thighs + straight legs 

I'm in the hope + dream stage at the moment, but I'm excited to get started.  :)

All photos via links.

Love,
​Jane

A few fair options for sweet bags that could come in handy for that weekly grocery store expedition or maybe just on a walk. The ready-made bag on the left is a collaboration between Industry of All Nations + Mafia Bags. It is made in California from upcycled boating sails + salvaged climbing rope.

The bag on the right was made from a vintage quilt with All Well Workshop's Full Moon Bag pattern. Amy generously offers this pattern free with her newsletter sign-up.

Whether worn across the body, around the waist or slung over the shoulder these bags are like the pocket every outfit needs. Museo Studio makes a generously sized beauty out of vintage quilt pieces. Sara Kirsten's sewing pattern would look as fantastic made out of leftover scraps or found textiles as it does made from sturdy canvas. This kit from Little House Seamstress is another great option.

I always appreciate that there are so many ways to choose fair! Supporting thoughtful makers is a wonderful pleasure. Making our own simultaneously offers clarifying insight into what it takes to create useful things + affirming satisfaction. It's great to support independent pattern makers as well.  :)

Vive les créateurs!

fair/make :: dresses
fair/make :: jumpsuits

All lovely photos via links.

Love,
Jane

This jacket was a slow make...not because it was especially time consuming to sew. I just took my time making decisions...like what pattern to use (this was my original plan), whether or not to add a lining, whether or not to add a collar, and what closure method to employ. The fabric felt extra precious + that increased the pressure to get this project just right. ​

Pattern modifications :: I used the Grainline Tamarack Jacket pattern, straightened the hemline + lengthened the body a bit. A lining was added. To keep the jacket from flaring out at the hem, I added 2 inch wide elastic at the back hem. A collar + patch pockets were also added.

Snaps were used as the closure method. I get nervous about the durability of the snaps on this delicate fabric, but I think it gives the jacket a nice finish whether or not I use them. 

Pattern :: Grainline Tamarack Jacket (modified)
Fabric :: Merchant & Mills Jacquard cotton
Lining :: rayon/linen from Joann

Love,
​Jane

So, I just couldn't seem to make myself wear my first pair of overalls made from this pattern. They just felt too big. I decided to make another pair with some fabric that I already had...my favorite indigo linen cotton. 

I made this pair 1 1/2 sizes smaller than my measurements called for according to the pattern. It's simple enough to look at the finished garment measurements to know that there will be sufficient ease. It's just a little difficult to know exactly how much ease would be desired in a piece like overalls. I did want mine to be a little bit oversized...and while I could still size down in these...I like these overalls much better than the first pair I made from this pattern.

(I couldn't be much more uncomfortable in front of the camera, but I do so enjoy seeing patterns made up + on bodies...so I feel obliged to contribute my own for what it's worth.) 

I don't trace my patterns, so I appreciate that this pattern was nested for the most part...meaning that I could just cut it down to the smaller size with only minimal need for piecing + taping at the curves. I made this pattern without modification.

A little of my Liberty stash was used for the insides. Liberty Tana Lawn is some of the sturdiest fabric I've sewn with, even as it is so lightweight. It will stand up to all the use these pockets will get + not add any bulk. I've lined the pockets of all my overalls with Liberty. I wear this pair (with this modification) about once per week year round + they've stood up well to all the wearing + washing.

These overalls sat waiting for their hardware for a while. I feel like these closures are a bit heavy duty for the linen fabric, but I couldn't really see a way around using them since I didn't want to use buttons + button holes and needed something easy enough to do + undo throughout the day.  ;) I admire these linen overalls that use metal closures, so I felt encouraged to give these a try.

Pattern :: Merchant & Mills Harlene
​Fabric :: indigo linen cotton (bought locally)
Hardware :: Citron Jeans

Love,
Jane

Handmade gifts are my favorite ones to give. It's fun to think of what each special recipient will like + then to pour love into every stitch or stroke. My goal is always to give simple, lovely + useful gifts.  Just a few thoughts ::

A hat, scarf or mittens for getting outside this winter.

A soft friend for keeping them company during stay-at-home times.

A candle to bring light to the darkness.

A treat to enjoy while on zoom.

A reusable bag for a little zero-waste-ness during quick grocery runs.

A calendar to remind them that they are loved every day of the year.

A fanny pack for treasures found on long winter walks.

A basket to hold a plant friend or bits + bobs.

A game to foster connection.

A loaf of something sweet or savory to leave on their doorstep.

A coat to keep them cozy too.

​A fresh mask for health.

All lovely photos via links. 

Love, 
Jane

My overalls are finished! This pair uses the Merchant & Mills Harlene sewing pattern. I made it without modifications, except shortening the length. (I should shorten the straps a bit too.) This pattern features a classic overalls shape meant to fit a bit oversized. The darts at the back waist (shown in the bottom left photo) give a little shape to the backside.

This pattern takes some time to sew, but offers some really professional feeling finishes in the end. Hammering in the hardware at the end made me feel like I'd made something substantial with my own two hands.

The fit of the these overalls is maybe a bit looser than I'd prefer in the end. It could also be that the fabric is a bit stiffer than I'd prefer. Finding just the right fabric is often my biggest barrier to sewing. If I end up with a piece of clothing that feels a little bit off, I've learned that it would just be better not to make it. Something else will always be chosen to wear instead. Anyway...my intention is to wear these overalls in (hopefully like Joanna's partner's jacket) + to love them. I love the pattern + am dreaming of what fabric I might make them in next...maybe lighter fabric + a size smaller.  :)

Sewing pattern : Merchant & Mills Harlene
Fabric : Merchant & Mills 8 oz. dark denim 
Hardware : Citron Jeans

​Love,
Jane

p.s. please ignore my wet mess of hair that I did not foresee making an appearance here.  :)

My overalls are in progress (actually they are just waiting for their hardware- yay!). The pattern that I used will be available as a printed pattern, but I just couldn't wait to make mine.  :) We don't have a printer (so printing already has a cost), and this is a large pattern to glue together...so I thought this might be a good time to try a pattern printer. 

I printed a sewing pattern at a local copy shop in the past + ended up paying over $30 for a pants pattern. (yikes!) This time I did a limited search for sewing pattern printing + came across these printers: 

• ​pdfplotting :: USA based, seem to be a little more complicated to upload to, have to print at least three patterns at a time, seems to only ship to USA
• patternsy :: UK based, have to print two sheets at a time (which my single pattern accomplished), ships worldwide
• sew yyc :: Canada based, seems to only ship to Canada

My choice was patternsy. I sure would have liked to use a service closer to home, but I didn't have three patterns to print. Patternsy seemed to be a simple service to use + ships to my location.

Once I decided to use patternsy, I was able to upload my pattern easily. Mark texted me as soon as I placed my order to let me know that my one pattern covered the required two pages + that my order was set to go. It took 13 days from order to arrival (in the USA) + cost $18. The paper that it is printed on is tissue weight, but I would say that it feels a bit more sturdy than the classic brown pattern paper. I like that it folds up compactly.

I really appreciate that patternsy understands sewists' needs + desires. They can even untangle overlapped pattern pieces that would normally require further pattern tracing. (fantastic!) 

Using a pattern printer was not cheap.
My PDF pattern cost $11.72 
Printing + shipping cost $18.23
Total cost :: $29.95 USD
 
If I waited for the paper pattern to be available:
The cost of the paper pattern + shipping from the UK would cost $48.18.
Merchant & Mills patterns in the USA cost $20 + shipping.

So...my conclusions:
Merchant & Mills patterns are pricey...but probably appropriately priced.
Maybe this solution doesn't seem too outlandish in context?  
I am going to use this pattern more than once...more than twice...so I'm happy.  :)

Love,
Jane