It's almost October! Can you believe it?
Looking for some motivation to take the Fairdare? (click the icons on the right for words)
How one clothing business moves toward zero-waste!
It's time for "a celebration of the small-batch, handmade, second-hand, well-loved, long-worn, known-origins wardrobe." 
How to be a minimalist longterm.
Just can't stop thinking about this space lately. Here too.
I've updated our ethical brands list. Some new additions there + some who have moved on... You can always find this list through the tab under the blog title!  :)

Have a wonderful, relaxing, fun weekend!!

Love, 
Jane

P.S. Please do let me know your favorite fair brands! I'd love to hear about + add more! 

Dorothy Day did not view herself as an individual, or a radical, or a prophet: she was one of a great many people whom Christ loved. And like a gorgeous, broken vessel, she was filled with that love day after day and spilled it out wherever she went. 
~from the Introduction by D.L. Mayfield :: The Reckless Way of Love :: Dorothy Day 

Individual values held + practiced make us better individuals, but I believe that at some point more is required. Last year's American presidential election + its subsequential fallout have reasserted our American fascination with individuality...and the lack of understanding of the importance (+ benefits for us all) of the greater good. 

When it comes to fair fashion + my own closet, I can make individual decisions. I can vote with my dollars. As a group we can choose fair + together our votes will send a stronger message. Yes...AND...

At some point I feel that it is only fair to do a little explaining. This input may not sway the direction of a company, but isn't it only fair to give them a little insight as to how they can change my vote? Because ultimately, isn't it in the interest of the greater good that this company provides the farmers + garment workers that grow + assemble their product the best lives possible? Isn't it in the interest of the greater good that all of their customers are offered the most ethical product possible? Isn't it in the interest of the greater good that polyester isn't endlessly filling every landfill + ocean for the foreseeable future? Isn't it in the interest of the greater good that this company uses all of its knowledge and influence to pave the way for other companies to offer the same to the people in their supply chains, their customers, and the environment? Um...yes...so:

Hello! My family has loved wearing a number of your pieces over the years. We were thrilled to find your affordable, cotton, fair-trade, patterned leggings + tees at Whole Foods a few years ago. Since then I have made it a priority to source clothing that values garment workers (fair-trade), farmers (organic cotton), and the environment (natural fibers that will decompose). I've kept my eye on Threads 4 Thought and had loved to recommend it as an affordable source of ethical clothing, but recently I've become confused. There is still mention of fair-trade certification on your "inside" page + a couple of fair-trade certified factories are listed, but I could find no garments that are certified or in that "collection". Recycled poly seems to be part of every garment. Recycled or not, poly feels soft in the store, but pills with the first wash, increases sweating + will not decompose. My daughter recently bought a Threads 4 Thought tee that fell apart in two washes, although she still has those original, intact, cotton pieces and wears them often. We vote with our dollars, but I also wanted to let you know why I am torn about recommending Threads 4 Thought + probably won't be buying any more from here on out. I admire that you are a thoughtful company + feel that you can be an exemplary leader in the sustainable fashion industry! Hope you return to your roots, because as it is the current product just feels a bit too close to poor quality fast fashion. I know that it is difficult to scale a sustainable company, but we are rooting for values + a high quality product! Thanks for listening. 
Sincerely, xxx
www.fairdare.org

I offer this note, not as an indictment against a company...not at all..and definitely not as a perfect specimen (I'm not even sure that I made my points clearly). I offer it as inspiration to write...let companies whose style we love...whose ethos is almost there...who could earn our dollars/votes with just a couple more changes...let them know! Let them know we are rooting for them. It can't hurt...and it just might help! I offer it as hope...for all of us!

Love,
Jane

As a new season approaches, I like to take a little time to evaluate what has worked with my wardrobe in the season past + look forward to the season ahead. This autumn (it's officially autumn!), I decided to see if I could simplify my wardrobe a bit further. A few things came to mind as I thought this process through. I wrote about my motivation toward less + my thinking behind letting some pieces go in the previous post. Here are a few of the other things I tackled:

Enough :: As my list was coming together, I wanted to be sure that the numbers of pieces I was putting in each category would be enough. One way this was put to the test was by consulting my notes from the past few seasons and making lists of what I would have to wear (from the proposed list) for each of my three seasons: warm weather, cold weather, + transition. I listed items for both warm + cold and assessed the outfit combinations against my previous seasons' notes. When it came to the transition category, I knew that I could wear all of the items in different combinations...so I didn't go into great detail there.

Warm weather:
-tanks x3
-tees x3
-pants x2
-shorts
-jumpsuit
-dress
-long-sleeved layer
-sandals
-trainers

Cold weather:
-long-sleeved tops x3
-tees x3
-sweatshirt
-pullover
-cardigan
-pants x3
-leggings
-jumpsuit
-dress
-clogs
-flats
-boots
-trainers

Transition:
-all pieces combined appropriately for the weather

My perceived ideals :: For my "small" (always relative) wardrobe, I want to hone in on what I like + don't like in each category. I want to learn from my mistakes going forward + avoid the ones I've already made. I listed my perceived ideals:
-tanks :: Bantam-perfect strap width + placement, breezy shape, no darts, can make longer or cropped...Pact-perfect straps + shape for layering
-tees :: fitted but not tight...Everlane navy or Lacausa Frank
-long-sleeved top :: layer over + under, no stiff, high collars
-sweatshirt :: raglan, bracelet length sleeves, not too long or tight at waist
-pullover :: oversized + longer, not too long sleeves, lightweight
-cardigan :: blanket coat-like...like Lauren Manoogian Capote
-dress :: a tank that layers? or may just want another jumpsuit
-pants :: ankle baring, straight, comfortable, fitted at top, high-waisted, lightweight, not stiff...olive vintage army...sarouelles...soft, pale, worn denim
-leggings :: ankle length, cotton (not poly) + lycra, Pansy, Pact for yoga
-trainers :: can be worn for exercise + casual
-light jacket/cardigan :: layers over + under

After filling the blanks set forth by my list, I'm so happy to see that I now have a variety of pieces that appeal to my perceived ideals in most ways. I have some thoughts on a very few pieces that I can be on the lookout for...and purchase over time, if found. When I look at my closet now, there is also an unplanned color scheme. At the moment, it is predominantly white, pale denim, black, and olive, with a little burnt red/brown thrown in. There are mostly solid pieces + a few patterned ones. This helps most of the pieces to mix + match easily. I have no real shopping list apart from the small list of items mentioned above. Even though I currently don't have a dress, I am just not feeling the need for one at the moment. That blank will hold my tencel jumpsuit for now.

Purpose/Appeal/Benefits of a 25 piece wardrobe :: I want to revisit this often enough to know + feel it.
-less to care for, organize, think about, purchase
-ease of replacement
​-knowing "enough"
-putting clothing into its proper place in my life
-build more versatility + opportunities for creativity
-less impact on the earth 

I'm not here to prescribe any method of wardrobe planning. I'm firmly in the camp of doing what feels best. (This does not include overspending or using people though, right?) I just thought I'd share what went into my current iteration of a simple wardrobe with the thought that it could spark an idea or two elsewhere, if anyone is looking.  :) 

Happy autumn, friends! Hope you are having fun getting dressed!

Love,
​Jane

A few weeks ago, I mentioned the idea of having a list of wardrobe items in order to keep things minimal + manageable in my closet. Making this list somehow motivated me to go through my pieces again with a more critical eye. I've kept the number of shoes + clothing (not counting outerwear, pajamas, + athletic wear) in my closet to under 50 items for a couple of years now. It's been down to around 40 pieces for a while, but I hadn't cared for that to be a strict number. As I write this, I still don't want to necessarily have a number. I like to feel free + don't want my closet to be a source of guilt or stress.

My desire is for clothing to occupy the place in my life + my thoughts that I feel it should. Clothing is a micro-shelter for my body. I want it to be comfortable + to keep me warm or cool as necessary. Clothing is also expression. I want it to feel fun + to say a little something about me too. I want my clothing to nourish the hands that make it with a living wage, the ability to eat nutritious meals, + the ability to clothe and educate children. I want my clothing to benefit the earth from its growth as organic fibers to its decomposition back into nutrient rich soil. I want my clothing to be considered in purchase, cared for in use, + honored in disposal. And yet, I don't want clothing to become my idol.

The list is a tool I'm using to put my clothes into their proper place in my life. It's not really about a specific number, but more of a neighborhood. Too much rigidity just causes me stress. A little grace goes a long way. With time + focus, I've been able to hone in on my desire for + comfort with less. I've observed (+ recorded) my preferences + the feelings of too much/not enough/enough. For me, 25 pieces seem workable + just about right.

Once I had a list that I thought might be a good starting point, I listed the slots (tank, tank, tank, tee, tee......) and wrote my pieces into the blanks. My favorites went in first with the extras falling into a middle space to be further evaluated. A third column made space for listing pieces that were up for letting-go consideration. 

A helpful adjustment that I made with the latest closet evaluation was to decide if each item served me in more than just one way. A top whose color lends itself really well to one season + whose style lends itself well to a very narrow weather situation does not really earn its spot on my list. A pair of pants whose shape I love, but whose comfort allows for very limited situational use is in the same boat. I still really like both of those pieces, but they are not serving me well enough. In this way, I was able to let another stack of clothes go...and I am closer than ever to my 25. These seldom worn pieces weren't really serving a real need, so they won't be missed.

Some of the reasons I let things so this time:
-the two reasons above
-pieces that don't really layer under or over (we have very few perfectly 75F all-day days)
-pieces that don't feel or look quite right + result in sporadic adjustment + second guessing
-redundant pieces
-pieces that I hadn't worn last year, but maybe this year? (no)
-holey pieces with nice shapes
​-a beautiful piece that I just don't feel like wearing anymore, but know someone else will enjoy (+ know I can sell for a good price)

I was able to sell a bunch of these pieces, and have set aside that money to replace a couple of necessities (non-holey leggings-yay) + any other clothing related needs this autumn. Other pieces were donated or added to the rag bag. When selling clothing, I remember that I received value from wearing them. I don't think too much about the money "wasted" on an item, so I can set the price low enough for it to sell...while still receiving a little cash. I try to learn from my mistakes + not buy that mistake again. 

I'm keeping a very short list of items that I am still questioning (because the season to wear them is almost here). I've already addressed three of those...and have five to go. I wrote a reevaluation reminder into my calendar, so it will not be forgotten. 

A little more tomorrow.  :)

Love,
​Jane

The sun will rise,
​and we will try again.
~Tyler Joseph

I often forget about polenta, but really enjoy it. We've been eating gluten-free for one of our tribe lately. I'm still working on compiling a repertoire of gluten-free recipes that are meat-free, zero-waste (as possible) + tasty...so this departure from rice was quite welcome.  :) 
​

Mexican Polenta
1/2 cup cornmeal
1 Tbsp. butter (we compost the wrappers)
2 cups water
1 tsp. salt
grated cheese (ours was pepper jack)
tomatoes
pepper
beans (made from bulk + frozen)
avocado
pepper flakes

For polenta: Bring water + salt to boil, slowly pour cornmeal in while whisking, reduce heat to simmer, add butter, stir until thickened (just a few minutes), remove from heat + stir in cheese.

For this meal we used the toppings listed above, but use what is available, in season, + sounds good. This time I sliced some tomatoes + peppers from our garden and sautéed them in a little olive oil over medium heat. Top the polenta + enjoy.

Love,
Jane

I finally cut into this vegetable dyed, Indian block print fabric that I've been saving for just the right project since February. I always have a project in mind when I buy fabric, but often my inspiration wanes between the time the online order is placed + the package arrives. I try to counter this by waiting to buy until I am sure...but...for some reason I often change my mind.

This fabric is my favorite piece I've found in quite some time, so that just seemed to make the stakes higher. I'm glad that I waited for the connection with saroulles. Folkwear makes a beautiful pattern for them. I like wearing these with tank tops now + imagine them being just as great with sweatshirts later. These pants are super comfy, with an interesting shape. I'm thinking a pair in a sort of sueded rayon challis is next (if I can find the right fabric). (Later the same day: I think I found it via listening to this podcast!)

Fabric :: Indian block print from etsy
Pattern :: Folkwear 119 (slightly cropped)

Love,
​Jane

My favorite kind of peppers to grow are Carmen peppers. They grow well in our climate and they are sweet + tasty. I was unable to get the seedlings from our usual source this year, so I decided to try these spicy peppers along with some more bell shaped sweet peppers. Both plants have done very well + produced a lot of peppers.

We love spicy food, so I was very excited when the first spicy pepper was ready to pick. What I was not anticipating was the painful burns I got on both hands from cutting them. Wow! They kept me awake at night. So, I've been a little afraid of these things ever since.  :)

They have been pouring in from the garden, + I've been avoiding them (other than adding portions to the pickle jars). I thought I'd try drying them and then crushing them into pepper flakes for use throughout the year. The peppers are strung onto some buttonhole thread + will probably take 3-4 weeks to dry. Once they are dry, they will be crushed, kept in a jar for up to a year, + used to season lots of meals.

My favorite + most used spice in the kitchen has to be pepper flakes. I am fortunate enough to be able to buy them quite inexpensively in bulk. Even so, I think it will be rewarding to use our own homegrown pepper flakes...+ I'm guessing they will be a bit more spicy too.

If anyone is looking for a simple food to grow...even on a balcony, or back porch in a pot...I'd recommend trying peppers. A seedling can be found at a nursery or farmer's market in the spring + transplanted into a pot. They don't grow too big (as opposed to a cucumber or tomato plant), resist pests, and like water, sunshine, + heat. :)

Love,
​Jane

It's that time of year again! Last week concluded New York's fashion week. A handful of other cities have gone before + some are still to come. Color combinations, pattern mixing, silhouettes, original use of basic pieces, proportions, general creativity, and an offhanded injection of fun...these are a few of the things that I admire in these amazing photos. I'm inspired to try new things with the items already in my closet...to thrift with new eyes...+ to imagine creative makes. I don't know which part of fashion weeks around the world is more inspiring...the shows themselves or the street style. I do love the anything goes nature of street style these days. There is no dictated style...no hemline of the year...no rules about wearing white...no strange looks regarding sock + sandals. And as always, the best accessories are a smile + a friend.  :)

Amazing photos via links.

Love,
​Jane