Another summer's wear has taken its toll on our wardrobes, and we're deciding what we'll let go + what we'll take forward. His shorts that no longer hold keys inside the pocket receive a patch + a new role as day-off shorts. His worn through belt is retired + my (for years) unused one steps in. A thrifted robe without a tie loses a little length + gains a closure that I like better than a tie. This afternoon spent making useful, little improvements feels satisfyingly productive!

Love,
Jane

I sometimes imagine having a few beloved, sewing patterns that I make over + over again. It might be nice to just sew a fresh button up in a new fabric each autumn or to make a new pair of jeans, when the old ones wear out. It's not easy to find the patterns that suit me or the fabric that feels right, but I can dream.  :)

Some indie pattern makers seem to be building this sort of collection for themselves. Merchant + Mills is, to many of us, the pinnacle of this concept. Their style conjures Toast + Margaret Howell vibes which feel timelessly beautiful + utilitarian. Anna Allen, Vivian Shao Chen, Elizabeth Suzann + so many others (I know this list hasn't been keeping up with them!) create collections of sewing patterns that fit their own bodies + styles. I love that!

So...just for fun, here's a little, sewing pattern collection that I could imagine making, wearing + maintaining:

• Merchant & Mills Ottoline :: I'd roll up the sleeves on the shirts + layer them over tanks + under sweaters...with shorts, pants + tied around the waist of a dress. The jacket could be worn buttoned up over a tee or layered cozily over a sweatshirt or sweater. 
  • deep-hued linen shirts for autumn
  • poplin shirts
  • white linen shirt
  • jackety layer in soft, olive canvas or denim
• Merchant & Mills Heroine :: Pants are the staples of my wardrobe. These few colors work all year long.
  • dark denim 
  • natural canvas
  • pale denim
• Anna Allen Pomona slim leg version :: I like most of mine with patch pockets + drawstrings. They are comfy lounge pants, but also pair well with a sweater or jacket for outings. The flowy pair could go dressier with a flowy tank, button up or sweater.
  • soft, lightweight canvas 
  • linen for warmer weather
  • something flowy for a bit more polish
  • shorts in lightweight poplin
  • lightweight print for pajama pants
• I'd like to find a tank dress pattern I like :: A good tank dress works on the hottest days, looks great with a button up tied around the waist + layers well with sweaters, sweatshirts + jackets.
  • linen dress 
  • flowy dress 
  • flowy tank 

I would supplement these pieces with a few tanks, tees, sweatshirts + sweaters. Sandals, trainers, flats, clogs + boots all change up the looks as well. Inspiring.

Love,
Jane

There is something delicious about corduroy in the autumn. Rich hued, cotton corduroy bridges the gap between pale, breezy, summer linen + cozy, winter wool while layering beautifully with either one. Corduroy is a durable partner for denim + always manages to feel both casual + elevated. 

It was fun finding a little secondhand corduroy to put here (photos are linked). I'm looking forward to wearing my trusty, ivory cords in the weeks to come + this reminded me how much! :)

Love,
Jane

The other day, someone mentioned she was in the process moving toward a plastic-free wardrobe. Of course, this was pretty thrilling to me.  :) I kept my cool, because there wasn't a lot of time for conversation...but it got me thinking.

​It's always interesting to see where different people decide to engage with movement toward a more ethical or sustainable wardrobe, and I thought it might be a good idea to create some resources for some different on-ramps or focus points here. So, you'd like to move toward having a plastic-free wardrobe? Yay!  :)

Motivation is key, and there is plenty of motivation for pursuing a plastic-free wardrobe:

• it feels good to not be encased in plastic (polyester, nylon, lycra, etc.)
• plastic fiber production keeps us bound to oil production + consumption 
• the plastic we wear will never decompose fully 
• plastic fibers produce microfibers with every wash + wear that are in our drinking water, brains + placentas

Moving toward a plastic-free wardrobe involves learning to recognize what different fibers look + feel like. Looking at the labels on our own clothing is a good place to start. When looking for secondhand or new clothing, we'll want to check the label before falling in love. It's easier to recognize the names of natural fibers (cotton, linen, hemp, flax, wool, alpaca) than synthetics (polyester goes by many names). It’s kind of like reading a processed food label. Look for the recognizable words. It's not incredibly difficult to find 100% natural fiber tops, pants and dresses, but it may be easier in some shops than others. Check out our ethical brands page for lots of options.

When it comes to natural fiber, there are some choices to be made. We can prioritize organic cotton over conventional cotton grown with the aid of pesticides. We can focus on what I'm going to call whole fibers (like linen + cotton) rather than processed fibers (like rayon + cupro) which are made with naturally derived through chemical processing.

Going truly plastic-free involves saying no to lycra + spandex as well as polyester + nylon. This particularly narrows the choices in a few categories of clothing, and yet there are some incredible people putting the effort into offering functional, plastic-free pieces. We'll dive a little deeper into a few of those resources here.

One further note, before we get to the resources: Here at Fairdare, we like to prioritize farmers (so we prioritize organic cotton + other fibers that can grow well without pesticides like linen + hemp), garment workers (so we look for fair-trade certifications + domestic labor that can be monitored closely + is governed my labor laws) + the planet (so we care about how many miles a garment travels from seed to closet, the toxicity of dyes, and that materials biodegrade). These values are reflected to various degrees here.

:: Intimates :: A few brands have taken on the challenge of creating 100% natural fiber intimates. Since lycra + spandex are normally used to enhance performance, expectations will need to be adjusted in regards to recovery + support when choosing these items. 

• Pansy :: 100% USA grown + milled organic cotton, designed + sewn within 20 miles in California, biodegradable rubber/cotton elastic, men's + women's styles available
• Oddobody :: 100% organic cotton from Peru, sewn in WRAP (world responsible accredited production) certified factories in Peru, designed in New York :: cut out the elastic to compost
• Kent :: 100% GOTS organic cotton, sewn in a fair-trade certified factory in India, guaranteed free from plastics, biodegradable, men's + women's
• Industry of Nations :: 100% organic cotton, sewn where the cotton is grown in India, recycled elastic, undyed + natural dyes, fair wages, men's + women's
• Q for Quinn :: a few plastic free options :: 100% GOTS (global organic textiles standard) organic cotton from India, sewn in India, biodegradable rubber/cotton elastic​
• Ozma :: it's possible some may be able to wear a rigid fabric bra like this one made from regeneratively farmed silk or this one made from 100% organic cotton, designed + made in California, cut out elastic before composting

:: Athletic Wear :: Designers turn to ribbed fabric for stretch + recovery in the absence of lycra or spandex, but we can't expect 100% cotton ribbed leggings to recover in the same way as our stretch leggings. If we want to go plastic-free in this category, it will probably be helpful to think differently about what we wear to exercise. ​

• Industry of Nations :: 100% organic cotton rib fabric, natural dyes, sewn where the cotton is grown in India, fair wages, men's + women's tees, tanks, shorts and soft pants
• Pansy :: 100% USA grown + milled organic cotton, designed + sewn within 20 miles in California, biodegradable rubber/cotton elastic, tees + shorts, ribbed fabric leggings + shorts
• Sokoi :: 100% linen pants + shorts :: linen/cotton blend tees :: designed + made in Los Angeles, these pieces are made for yoga + movement, but are also great for everyday life :: versatility is a great ethical quality! when we need less, less resources are required - less waste results too (I love my Laurel linen pants for yoga, stretching + everyday life!)
• Oddobody :: 100% organic cotton from Peru, sewn in WRAP (world responsible accredited production) certified factories in Peru, designed in New York :: cut out the elastic to compost :: biker shorts, tanks, tees, soft pants
• Jungmaven :: some 100% hemp + 100% hemp/organic cotton shorts, tanks + tees, designed + made in California, cut out elastic before composting

In my opinion, choosing ethical + sustainable clothing often involves a bit of prioritization + compromise. We may need to pay a little more for organic fibers, purchase a necessary new piece when we can't find a secondhand version, or accept that a secondhand piece has to travel from a distance. When choosing plastic-free athletic wear, we might choose looser basketball type shorts rather than bike shorts that will stretch out + sag.

:: Footwear :: Leather (for non-vegans), canvas + natural rubber would be the obvious go-to materials here. It is tough to get away from glues + non-natural rubber which are usually made with synthetics. However, plastics only came onto the scene in 1855, and people have been wearing shoes for centuries. Therefore, even in this tough category, options exist without the need for complicated synthetic processing. Think handcrafted, traditional footwear.

• Cydwoq :: leather, water-based, biodegradable glues, handmade in Burbank, California
• Christy Dawn :: leather, nailed soles, made in Spain

​​I'm not sure if it's helpful or not to mention my own experience here, but I don't want to give the impression that anything other than a perfectly plastic-free wardrobe is failure. I don't have any issues prioritizing 100% natural fiber tees, jeans, shirts + sweaters. I did, however, quit wearing unsupportive, organic cotton bras after I saw a picture of myself wearing one. I keep (+ use) my lightweight rain jacket. I wear a cotton bodysuit as a swimsuit, but it does contain a touch of spandex.

Rather than demanding perfection, this list is made to offer possibility + hope. Progress is positive.  :)

All photos via links.

Love,
Jane

In my perfect sustainable wardrobe scenario, I would have a modest number of pieces that I love. I'd wear them, repair them + wear them out. The worn out pieces would simply be replaced seasonally.

Unfortunately, my experience is a bit messier than that. Sometimes I try things that don't end up getting worn as much as I'd like. Luckily, secondhand clothing is cool, so I can often resell even my secondhand purchases. 

A few ways to let things go + earn:

• list things for sale on a resale site :: like Poshmark, Noihsaf Baazar or Ebay :: I usually do this with my name brand things. I try to price them enticingly, so that they move quickly. My goal is to get things worn.
• list + earn credit on a brand's resale site :: like Outerknown, Doen or Patagonia :: We do this with my partner's clothing, since it seems like the more direct route for men's wear. Again, price to move.
• bring a bag of things to a local resale shop :: like Buffalo Exchange, Arizona Trading or Plato's Closet :: These places like certain brands + styles (mall resale?) that the shops reflect. 
• send a bag of things to a listing site :: like Thredup :: It's a time saver, because they do the listing.
• bring worn jeans to Madewell for savings on your next pair of jeans :: If a brand works, stick with it. There are lots of fair-trade certified jeans at Madewell.
• consign at a local consignment shop 
• attend a clothing swap :: Instant out-with-the-old/in-with-the-new-to-you gratification. Don't be afraid to come home with less than you brought. :) The leftovers can be donated.
• have a well-curated yard sale with a few friends :: Again, agree to donate what's left before you start! :)
• (a note on those bag-up-your-discards + send-them-to-us-for-a-discount-on-our-site offers :: My thought is that my donations probably do more good in my town rather than accumulating in Los Angeles. They seem like a recipe for bailing + sending overseas. If I donate in my town, it saves on transportation too.) 

When we value selling this way, we are also exposed to purchasing this way. Secondhand shopping is not only easier on our budget, but it keeps things out of the landfill + extends the value of the resources (soil, crops, water, dyes, power, transportation) + work (of farmers + garment workers) already used! Yay!!

I often let my selling earnings get absorbed into our big budget, but this year I kept those earnings separate + used them as the budget for my shopping list. By keeping my wants small, I was able to recycle my budget as well as my clothing this season. This doesn't make anything free. That money was money I spent, but it does feel like recycling much of its value. That feels pretty good!

Love,
Jane

If I had to name the thing that I emphasize most about the fairdare in my own closet, it would probably be keeping the inventory lean. I'm not extreme about it, but I do try to be aware of overconsumption. This is not a directive, it is just an acknowledgment. I think there are many ways to take the fairdare (emphasizing thrifted clothing, making one's own clothing or wearing a uniform to name a few). Most of us will utilize some combination of ethical + sustainable practices, and that is beautiful.

In keeping a tight edit of pieces, I lean toward pieces that fall into a color palette so that they mix + match. Mine is mainly white, natural, olive + denim. I may love a new color or pattern that shows up out there, but rarely (+ usually only as an accessory) does it have much longevity in my closet. So when I found a pair of organic cotton, made-in-California shorts that I liked + they were only available in black, white + cornflower, I figured the black + white ones were the ones for me.

I decided that I would wear the white ones mostly at home (to keep them clean) + the black ones for curb sitting outings, biking, gardening + camping. It sounded like a good plan until I wore the black ones on a weekend camping trip + realized that I just didn't feel very cute wearing them. It probably sounds ridiculous, but I decided to honor that + sold them. Someone bought them right away, and I hope they love the heck out of them this summer!

I decided to see if I could change my mind about the cornflower, because I was not finding any other shorts that I liked the fit + feel of as much.

• I thought about how I would wear them. I like them with a white tee or tank.
• I noted that I'm attracted to other bright colors this season. 
• I noticed an Eastern Bluebird in our yard + that its gorgeous feathers are a version of that cornflower blue. I actually think that's what did it for me. This kind of blows my mind. I was actually inspired by nature. :)

I'm not sure if this thought exercise contradicts the concept of wardrobe authenticity, but I'm curious + learning...so I'm interested to see what happens. (It also made me smile to look down + see that I'm practically sitting on a cornflower, yoga towel I bought years ago, because they only had a few colors to choose from. Add that to the list above.)  :)

Love,
Jane

On the lookout for warm weather pieces, I found both of these secondhand (on Poshmark). I bought the black + white top first and it just feels like me. When the tan + white dress version showed up in my search, I was confident that I'd love it too. Once I received it, it was clear that it was lighter weight + too sheer to wear as anything other than a swimsuit cover-up. 

I wasn't sure it would sell particularly well (because I bought it cheap + there was another one available) + knew I'd get more use out of it as a top, so I picked the stitching out of the kangaroo pocket on the front + hemmed it at the same length as the other top. I'm not sure that I would have bought two such similar tops, but I do like them both and the price was good. 

I love finding secondhand pieces from my favorite fair brands. These tops are nice quality cotton, made in California, and have plenty of life left in them! 

Every time I use our ethical brands list, I find a few that are no longer doing business. It makes me wonder if the ones that have closed really wanted to or just felt that they had no other choice. Listening to Creativity in the Time of Capitalism makes me wonder if an era is passing. We drive past so many empty storefronts, and I wonder if Covid, the internet, tariffs + the current political climate has shifted consumers' buying to a lethal (to small businesses) level. 

Of course, I believe that sustainable fashion is possible. Miranda Bennett sometimes wonders aloud if she was too purist in her ethos toward sustainability. I understand what she is saying, but I'm so glad that Miranda blazed a trail toward better. And...I'm incredibly sad that sustainability hasn't become...well...more sustainable with time.

I wonder if it might be useful to think of myself as a patron to one or two brands. The artists whose names we know centuries later usually had patrons whose support enabled them to create their masterpieces. I could view my (new) ethical clothing purchases as support toward the innovative work that I want to enable.

I don't want to buy clothing that I don't need, but I might be able to choose a brand or two whose work I want to see continue + invest in a piece once or twice a year. I could see this not only as simple wardrobe curation, but also as investing in the future of brand + in the future of sustainable practices.

Obviously, I can't keep a small business afloat by buying two items per year. I'm just wondering if thinking of ourselves as a patrons is a sort of truth. This truth could also prompt us to think of our clothing as the works of art that they are.

Just a thought. :)
​
Lovely photos clockwise from top left via Miranda Bennett, Bliss & Mischief, Herself Clothing, Punkwasp, Miranda Bennet, +  Ilana Kohn.

Love,
Jane

Autumn is here. Crunchy leaves are on the breeze, monarchs are abundant in the butterfly weed and grey clouds are bringing cooler days. All of this has me ready to embrace the darker colors + cozier touches in my wardrobe. Bon has long been one of my favorite inspirations for artfully simple dressing + this season is no different. The style that is singularly Bon comes in large part from the fact that many of the pieces they carry are offered year after year. What a confirmation that a wardrobe can be built slowly...confidently...for the long term...and not take itself too seriously.

These are my autumnal notes:

• navy on navy :: dark denim + indigo play well here
• tiny, cozy red touches :: yes to cozy neckerchiefs + cheerful socks
• warm wheat + deep olive create rich combinations with navy
• winter whites feel warm + light
• tie on the whimsy :: bows + bandanas add elements of unseriousness + humor
• classic pieces can be interesting + can be happily worn for a long, long time

I love recognizing pieces I already have in my closet in my inspiration! It's so lovely to feel as though the pieces I've been drawn to still excite me. Pulling out my 15 year old plaid, wool scarf...shaking out my olive pants...affirming that $4 pajama shirt purchase from the thrift store...it's all really beautiful...and sustainable in a world full of fast fashion + quickly changing trends. Brown + burgundy (pure late 90s) are the colors the industry is bringing forward this season, but there is something really beautiful about thinking that navy is what's speaking to me this season...again.

Love,
Jane

I've avoided writing about the current tariff situation for a number of reasons, but mainly because I haven't really wanted to. Who wants to read anything more about them? The more I read, however, the less I see my point of view expressed, so I'd like to see where this goes.

Who pays the tariffs?

These tariffs are taxes paid by importers (small brands, shop owners, Apple, Walmart, etc.) to the American government. (Both sides' refrains have been misleading: one side repeats that they are paid by the exporting country + the other side repeats that they are paid by consumers.) The importer can then decide whether to subtract that cost from their profit, recoup it by charging more for the product, or a bit of both. 

Many larger importers have thus far been absorbing the cost of the tariffs in order to stay competitive. This points out the vast profits they make. Other importers have raised prices on goods already in country in order to pay for the next round of imports. (People I know are doing the markups.) 

Couldn't a positive affect of the tariffs be that they get people to decrease their consumption?

An argument could be made that tariffs will lead people to put the brakes on their consumerism. I would argue that only those already at the bottom will really be forced to buy less. I also believe that simplicity offers its most sparkling effects when it is not coerced. Furthermore, the expressed goal of this chaotic agenda is most definitely not to decrease consumption. 

As a community already attuned to supply chains + sustainability, we are ready to wear what we have, mend, refashion + thrift. We will turn to our stashes of fabric + yarn for crafting. We can craft toys + jams + hats + books for gift giving. We will continue to compost + grow vegetables. And we can freely share our skills + knowledge with others.

I love simplicity. I love making. I love secondhand things + homegrown food. AND I love human sized enterprises. I love fairly traded African baskets, Japanese fabrics + British yarn. I love small brands + local shops.

Couldn't we use this to promote made-in-the-USA brands + encourage other brands to make their products in the USA?

I love brands that source materials + labor close to where they design their products. I'm elated that these brands have made the effort to make this a reality, and I do hope that more will make the switch. And...I don't think that every brand who has not already done this work deserves to die. American made brands will likely find it more difficult to source their materials + labor, if there is suddenly more competition for what is currently available. 

Whether a company is big or small, it is difficult to pivot production + supply chain midstream. Concessions may be made in other ways to stay afloat. Sustainability is challenging whichever way you slice it, but never as difficult as when it was not part of how the brand was built from the start. 

Isn't it good for unnecessary businesses to be weeded out?

Capitalism makes an argument for weeding out the unnecessary businesses in time, but who wants to live in a world where we can only shop at Amazon + Walmart? Cuz that's where that game ends up.

What can I do?

I always look for actionable conclusions, and I think mine here are these:

• do the work of contentment :: see the beauty in what I already have
• continue the fairdare :: mend, refashion, thrift, prioritize people + the planet
• joyfully + gently converse about making + creativity + makers + sustainability 
• buy + use a special piece or two from a maker or shop I love, if it makes sense 
• participate in the political process :: fill out surveys, write emails, get out the vote
• vote in every primary + election

...because I value people more than profit...the planet more than GDP...collaboration more than competition...peace more than domination...conversation more than evisceration...and contentment more than greed. 

Love,
Jane