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sustainable

3/15/2021

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I doubt anyone needs an alert that the first of the often-copied, aspirationally- hacked, Elizabeth Suzann sewing patterns have arrived. This pioneer in ethically made clothing is again leading the way with the thoughtful reinvention of her brand. It's this reinvention that has me considering the term "sustainability".

"Sustainable" is a term that is often misassigned when it comes to fashion. Is fashion really sustainable, if the soil in which its fibers are grown is not healthy? Is fashion sustainable if wearable clothing ends up in landfills or clogging up the economies of foreign nations? Is fashion sustainable if those who make it cannot afford to live with their families? Is fashion sustainable if those trying their best to produce it are burnt out on by stress of it all?

Making one's own clothing has been called slow fashion in recent years in an effort to highlight its alignment with sustainability. I appreciate this line of thinking...to a point. There are many makers out there embodying this slowing beautifully with thoughtful project planning, sourcing local fibers +/or growing plant dyes, etc. But when we consume so much goodness all collected together in our social media feeds, we can feel the desire to make, make, make (+ share) constantly. It may take us longer to make our clothes, but if we are making more + more of them...we are not actually slowing our consumption.

​I would argue that sustainable fashion has more to do with a slowing of consumption than almost anything else. 

Sustainability is the point at which we eat food that is grown on farms not so far from home. We wear clothing grown + made not so far from home. We wear out our clothing + make it into something else useful. The peels + pits + bits of rag left over regenerate the valued soil. Farmers + garment workers live next door. Our children attend school together + we all receive health care when we need it. We welcome new families into our community, because we know there is enough for all of us + that they will contribute to our collective well-being.
"Enough is as good as a feast." ~Thomas Mallory

Lovely images via Elizabeth Suzann.

Love,
Jane
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trade

3/8/2021

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An email from Patagonia got the ball rolling. Patagonia said that they would take back used Patagonia clothing in exchange for store credit. My partner has a few things that he hasn't been wearing much because they are too big...but that are hard to let go. This, however, seemed like a deal worth taking.

Once the pieces were gathered, he looked for further instructions + found that the original call for used stuff had been modified. A couple of emails later, it was confirmed that none of his items would be eligible. (I still thought it was worth mentioning here, because it will work for some.)

​The work of gathering + detaching had been done, so I hoped that a trade of some sort could still go forward. Three long-sleeved tees (couldn't find that last one when I went to take the photo) + two pairs of shorts...for a "new" one of each? Fingers crossed we don't have to let that forward momentum go to waste.  ;)
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everybody world
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outerknown
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I thought maybe I could gather some options to sweeten the deal...starting with the long-sleeved tee. On further investigation, I found that Patagonia is now making all of their long-sleeved tees with polyester. Bravo on the fair-trade certified sewing. Bravo on the 50% recycled cotton. But the 50% postconsumer recycled polyester + all the plastic microfibers it will shed with each wear + wash get a "no". 

I was able to find two secondhand, long-sleeved, Patagonia tees in his size on eBay. I also used this ethical tee post to gather these options:
  • ​Everybody World :: 100% recycled cotton, made in USA
  • Mollusk :: USA grown cotton, made in USA
  • Jungmaven :: hemp/organic cotton, made in USA
  • Outerknown :: organic cotton, made in Los Angeles

Now the choice is his.  :)

Photos with links via those links. Top photo, mine.

Love,
Jane

P.S. I wrote this post before I had the chance to have a conversation with my partner. He looked at all of the options + we talked about which ones were most ethical. There wasn't much enthusiasm happening, so I asked if he really wanted a long-sleeved t-shirt. He considered when he would wear it. These shirts were only getting worn to mow the lawn + he knew which other layer he'd wear on the few days a long-sleeved t-shirt would be preferable. So in the end...the conclusion was that no replacement is needed (or wanted). And that is the most ethical tee...the one we didn't buy.  :)
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ethical wardrobe superpowers :: julia

3/2/2021

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Often our sustainable shifts come from intentional work, but we may also have some natural tendencies that we can leverage in the direction of sustainability. Our challenge may be to recognize these tendencies as actual superpowers + to guard them from being unintentionally lost.

Julia is a natural minimalist when it comes to clothing. She just prefers less.
Periodically, I bump up against the realization that the abundance + choice I offer as kindness could have the unintended consequence of clouding out (or even training away) her feelings of "enough". It's a sort of comical realization when I spend so much of my own time striving toward this feeling myself.  

I find it encouraging to hear other's perspectives on their wardrobes. Julia's perspective on her wardrobe is pretty simple + I love knowing that it can actually be that simple. Julia + I had a little conversation about some of this + she agreed to let me share it here.  :)  
  
Jane :: How do you feel about clothes? Do you have opinions about what you like to wear + what you don't like to wear? 

Julia :: I like comfy clothes that I can move in + that feel like "me".


Jane :: Can too much clothing start to feel overwhelming?

Julia :: Yes! I only want what I need, and I only need a few things.


Jane :: How do you feel about the fact that your job involves wearing a uniform?

Julia :: I don't really like the uniform, but it's not the worst. I don't have to worry about what to wear, because it's already there.


Jane :: What do you like most about one-piece dressing...like jumpsuits + dresses?

Julia :: It's just all there, and I don't even have to choose anything else.


Jane :: Do you like just having one pair of trainers, one pair of boots, one pair of sandals? 

Julia :: Yeah. I like having just what I need. I don't really want six pairs of shoes. And since it's quarantine, I don't really go anywhere anyway...so I guess there's that too.  :)


​These are a few of the things I see as Julia's ethical/minimal wardrobe superpowers:
  • truly wanting to dress with less
  • not depending on clothing for identity
  • finding contentment in formulas that work 
  • recognizing "enough" + not feeling the need to deviate

Thank you, my sweet girl, for sharing your thoughts with me + for letting me share them here! It's super inspiring for me to observe what comes naturally to you. I'll keep trying to do my part to preserve + honor your instinctive knowledge of "enough".

Dear reader, I imagine you + your people have some natural or hard-earned superpowers of your own. Take notice + celebrate + maximize their effects!  :)

Love,
Jane
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organic + fair-trade tees

3/1/2021

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jungmaven
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harvest + mill
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known supply
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everybody world
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outerknown
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industry standard
There are a bunch of places to find fair-trade, organic cotton or hemp tees these days...and that is worth celebrating! I feel like I come across these basics often, but I also wonder if I'd remember where to find one when I needed one. So I decided to collect them here. This post is linked toward the bottom of our ethical brands page (for when we might need it).

As usual, we start with these reminders: ​
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The most ethical t-shirt is most often the one that we don't buy.  :)
-When we find ourselves in need of a new-to-us t-shirt, a thrift store is a great place to start the search for a sturdy 100% cotton one. 

The most common fibers used in tees today are polyester + cotton. Even recycled polyester is non-biodegradable plastic which sheds plastic microfibers with each wash. Cotton is often sprayed with chemicals that directly effect the land + the farmers that grow it. 
Thankfully organic cotton has grown in popularity. Growing organic cotton, however, is not easy...and it demands a lot of water.

Organic cotton can be sourced in one country, spun in another + milled in a third. By the time an organic tee is sewn, transported to the warehouse + shipped to the store or our house...it is probably better travelled than we are. It's exciting to see people care about how + where the fibers in the clothing they design are grown, processed + sewn. It's hard work to trace the journey, since the bulk of the industry has moved overseas. Many brands just don't seem that in touch with the fluctuations in the supply chain. Harvest + Mill is a great example of a brand who takes the time to know the places, people + conditions a tee comes from...from seed to finished product.

Growing new, organic cotton for each new tee is a resource-heavy endeavor involving water, land + labor resources. Innovations in recycled cotton are exciting...and the fact that a tee can be made with 100% recycled cotton (no new fibers added) is a breakthrough. 
Everybody World offers these innovative tees.

Hemp is another fiber focus for sustainable t-shirt makers. Hemp is a more naturally resilient crop than cotton requiring less water, chemicals + fertilizers. Hemp restores soil health rather than depleting it. It makes a sturdy, long-lasting fiber as well. Jungmaven makes hemp/organic cotton tees.


The working conditions of the garment workers who put together our clothing are of great importance. We know that our purchases factor into the paychecks of all the hands who touched that t-shirt. It's exciting to know that there are people designing clothes with the entire process in focus. Fair-trade certifications bring credibility to ethical labor claims.

While all of these factors are wonderful, we can't lose sight of the fact that even organic cotton, hemp + recycled cotton require land + power + water + transportation + human resources. These processes create waste too. Just how many t-shirts does one person need? Can we wear the ones we have longer + wash them less? Can we borrow or trade? Can we find a secondhand tee instead? Just a few things to consider before going any further.  :)

The tees collected here:
  • are fair-trade certified or made in the USA
  • are made from organic or recycled cotton 
  • cost less than $50 
  • are mostly from brands that offer "women's" + "men's" tees which, as always, refers more to sizing than gender

christy dawn :: organic cotton, made in los angeles
coyuchi :: organic cotton, fair-trade certified
everybody world :: 100% recycled cotton, made in the usa
harvest + mill :: USA grown organic cotton, made in usa
​industry standard :: organic cotton, made in los angeles
​jungmaven :: hemp/organic cotton, made in usa
​known supply :: organic cotton, fair-trade certified
​outerknown :: organic cotton, made in usa
pact :: organic cotton, fair-trade certified

I neglected to check if I'd already written a fair tees post until I was finished with this one. (I had.) Anyway...reading over my previous (now deleted) post let me know that this is indeed an update. Some of the brands listed in the previous post no longer make their tees with fair wages in mind, some have raised their prices + this time I decided to use fair-trade certification as my measure of working conditions. So...I'm posting this update with gratitude to the humans who run these brands with farmers, garment workers + the environment in mind.

​All lovely images via links.

Love,
​Jane
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ethical wardrobe superpowers :: him

2/24/2021

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There is no one-size-fits-all way of curating an ethical +/or minimal wardrobe. Some of us will use our love of browsing to score the best thrift store finds. Some of us would rather find one good t-shirt + stick with it.

The people I live with each have their own ethical wardrobe superpowers. Each of their closets looks different. Each of them has skills + ways of seeing that I admire. I've asked each of them to share a little bit more about their superpowers + I'm so excited that they agreed! First up is my partner.

Jane :: I know you don't spend as much time as I do thinking about your wardrobe, but do you have any things you try to keep in mind when it comes to your wardrobe...ethically speaking?

Him :: I try to remember to wear what I have + to wear it as long as it looks good + functions well. When I choose to replace something I try to buy from a company whose style I like but that also uses responsible practices. 

Jane :: I think you have a few ethical wardrobe superpowers. One is that you have a few categories of clothing that you know work for your life + you stick with those. What pieces do you find are "enough"?

Him :: t-shirts, button-downs, jeans, khakis (don't have to be khaki), trainers, boots, Vans

Jane :: Do you think that finding a middle ground with your style (casual vs. business) has allowed you to have fewer pieces?

Him :: Definitely. A button-down shirt with (dark) jeans works for work + when I get home I can just untuck the shirt + I feel more relaxed. I have a crewneck sweatshirt that I can wear over a button-down to work + over a t-shirt on the weekend. For me, a zip-up hoodie would seem a bit too casual for work. I like clothes that I can wear in a variety of different situations.

Jane :: Do you have any shortcuts when it comes to shopping?

Him :: We've found a bunch of my shirts at the same thrift store when we travel. If I don't find something I need at a thrift store, then I will look at Outerknown. I like their style + they fit me well. Their commitment to responsibility is something I can get excited about + respect. For example, their SEA jeans are fair-trade certified, made with organic cotton + they are guaranteed for life!

Jane :: Are there ways that you can feel somewhat uniquely "you" while keeping your wardrobe minimal?   

Him :: Yeah, I'm just careful about what I choose. If I can find a brand with an aesthetic that I really like, then I can choose things that reflect who I think I am + what I stand for. I do like having a pair of old skool Vans + having a t-shirt or two that reflects something I'm excited about.

Jane :: Do you still want new things all the time? How do you counter this urge?

him :: Not all the time. When I do, I remind myself that I have things that I really like + if I continue to wear my clothes until they wear out...then I can get something new that I really like. It makes me feel good to get life out every piece of clothing that I like + enjoy wearing. A few months ago, my Vans completely wore out + I felt good about choosing a new color.

Jane :: I admire your ethical wardrobe superpowers which I recognize as:
  • knowing what your basics are + sticking with them
  • making "style" with a few signature pieces
  • narrowing down your go-to ethical shopping choices
  • deciding to stop shopping just for fun + following through

Jane :: Is there any reason that these don't apply to cycling clothes?  (haha) 

Him :: Yeah, it's an area for improvement. I wish there were more cycling companies that took sustainability seriously.

Thank you, my love, for taking the time to think through + share some of your thoughts on clothing (not your favorite topic...but one of mine)!  :)
​

The fairdare can end up looking so many different ways + I love that! Recognize, celebrate + use those superpowers!

Love,
Jane
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improving

2/22/2021

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I made these overalls two + a half years ago. I wear them with tanks in the summer + all layered up in the winter. They are probably my most worn make at the moment, but they (like most things) were not perfect. 

I really liked the way these overalls looked...from the front. I like the ties + the Liberty lined pockets. The rise + the length are just how I like them. When I first made these, they were a struggle to get off + on...so I lowered the back (Beaton style). Since I admire those Beaton overalls so much, the back felt acceptable...but...it also felt a bit weird. I was always trying to make sure that the gap back there was folded over + secure. 

Today, I finally found a piece of leftover elastic + cinched up the back a bit. I like the loose-ish fit, so I left a little play in the waist. And it looks SO much better back there now!  :)
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Elastic has been a helpful fitting friend of mine. I often use it to bring shape more than to provide functional stretch. I used it on this straight jumpsuit to bring a little waist definition...on this jacket to coax a cocoon shape...and here to close the back gap.  :)

These little tweaks are often total game changers in making my pieces just that much more enjoyable to wear! Make it better...get it worn!
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Love,
​Jane
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gently worn

2/1/2021

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This is an interesting intersection: a big brand + clothing rental + gently worn resale.

Clothing rental is an intriguing approach to fair fashion. For those who have the means to do it, renting clothing offers a way to rotate clothing in + out of one's wardrobe without excessive waste. It offers an opportunity to share clothing in an organized way. 

Those of us who can't quite swing or justify the expense of rental could recreate the concept with a group of similarly sized family members or friends. We can attend clothing swaps, shop local thrift stores + sites like Poshmark or ThredUp (and resell there too).

Pieces like the gently worn resale pieces above are available online at Anthropologie (type "gently worn" into the search bar). They seem to be pieces that were previously rented via Nuuly (a clothing rental site). I appreciate that these pieces are available in a variety of sizes. Some even have their reviews attached. Nice!

All lovely photos via Anthropologie.

Love,
Jane
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separates or jumpsuits

1/19/2021

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These lovely pieces from Rachel Pally have me considering two approaches to a pared down wardrobe:
  • One piece dressing :: A dress or a jumpsuit offers a complete outfit with just one piece. These pieces make it super simple to get dressed each day. Looks can go from casual to dressy with a change of footwear. A small collection of dresses +/or jumpsuits along with a few versatile layers + a few well-chosen footwear options could be a complete wardrobe.
  • Coordinating separates :: A few well-chosen separates can be mixed + matched for a variety of options. The choice of tennies, sandals, boots or flats adds even more variety. 
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A combination of separates + one-piece options works too, but I do like considering boundaries + formulas from time to time. I love that there are so many lovely ways to have enough...with less.  :)

All lovely photos featuring pieces designed + made from rayon/linen in Los Angeles, California via Rachel Pally.

Love, 
​Jane
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curating collections

1/13/2021

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I'm on a constant mission to truly appreciate + rest in "enough". I'm a visual person + find curated collections of photos very inspiring. The images offered by well-curated shops + stylish people draw me right in. Here are a couple of ways that I'm curating images myself to aid my contentment with what I already have:

  • After recently affirming my style, I made a pinterest board of outfits I can make with my own clothes. I didn't even need to go looking for new pins. The pins already on my other boards offered plenty of stock. Now I have a whole collection of images that highlights the beauty of the pieces I already have.
  • I have a "desirables" pinterest board that I keep as a way to give myself some time to consider purchases before buying. It feels really good to delete items on that board, when the urge to own them has passed. This autumn, I decided to leave the things that I bought on this board as well. It's a good reminder that I have already aquired some good things this season + that they are the most desirable of all!

All inspiring images via links.
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Love,
Jane
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consolidating style

1/12/2021

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A lot of different people + shops + styles are inspiring to me. The ones that most inspire are often the ones that are quite distinct...defined by a tight color palette...a set of shapes...the feel of a decade or well-defined story. 

I can be completely drawn to worn denim + vintage, white tops + flowy dresses one day...and get completely enveloped in a colorful, vibrant world of woven prints the next.

My varied attractions sometimes overwhelm, because I also have a vision of a small collection of clothing that feels cohesive + that I wear over + over again for a long time.

Recently I decided to write out all of the styles (15) that I find most inspiring along with the pieces, silhouettes, fabrics + colors that I'm most drawn to within these styles. A list, for me, is often just an opportunity to empty my brain onto the page + see all the ideas in one place.

From there I could easily see what shapes + colors are repeated across various styles...what I'm drawn to repeatedly...what constitutes my style. I listed both pieces (not exact pieces or brands) + color palette on a new list. I could see the cohesion there + also a way to integrate an outlier or two. The best part? I already own a version of almost everything that I put on that list! It also brings into focus a couple of pieces that might round out my little collection...if I come across them.

For some reason, my mind needs periodic confirmation that I have my own version of style...and that I like it.  :) 

Love,
Jane
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