When my girls were small, my simple wardrobe consisted most prominently of a pair of soft denim overalls, a pair of natural twill overalls + a selection of fitted tees. My love for overalls hasn't waned, so I decided to make a pair. I've had an idea of what my perfect pair would look like for years, but haven't decided to make them a part of my simple wardrobe until now.

I've made Marilla Walker's Roberts Collection jumpsuit in the past, so I knew that I liked the fit. I had some linen purchased with pants in mind about a year + a half ago. When the fabric arrived, (major pitfall of internet fabric buying) it was thicker than I'd anticipated. It is lovely linen though, + I thought it could make a good, wearable muslin of these overalls. So...pattern + fabric already in hand...it was easy to make thought into reality in one weekend.  :)

I wanted to make a few changes to the pattern, beginning with removing the pleats at the waist...which was an easy alteration once I understood what was happening. In case it might be helpful to anyone else (+ to remind myself for future reference), here's what I did:

A few of the other alterations I made to the pattern were to widen the straps + the corresponding junction at the top of the back piece, make loop ties, leave the side button opening off, shorten the length, widen the pant legs (+ 1 1/2 inches at the bottom outer edge of the pant leg + blended to the hip), + deepen the pockets by 1 1/4 inches. I lined the pockets with some scrap liberty fabric in order to decrease the bulk there.

These overalls have a slightly oversized fit, which I like. I prefer the bib tied up high, which also eliminates a bit of the dropped crotch look. This linen grows a bit with wear, so I like that the straps can be adjusted higher as the day goes on.  :) So happy to be wearing overalls again!

Pattern :: Marilla Walker's Roberts Collection
Fabric :: 2 meters, 55 inch wide natural linen from Lithuania

Love, 
Jane

Materials :: This treasured little stack of block print, batik, ikat, hand-dyed indigo fabric has been used for a few projects before. It mostly consists of leftovers from other sewing projects, but there are also scraps from a holely tea towel + a beloved top. I'm wondering if there might be just enough here to be pieced together into a scrappy quilted coat.

Inspiration :: This type of lovingly, pieced together, cozy coat stops me in my tracks each time I come across one. A statement piece for sure...each one of these beauties tells a story of fiber + stitches.

Pattern :: I bought the Sapporo coat pattern as soon as it came out, + I think that it could be a great shape for this project. The fact that I probably have almost everything to make this idea come together already (from fabric to thread to organic cotton batting) offers appeal...as does the dropping temperatures.  :) I would need quite a lot of pieced together yardage for this version, so I'm still debating...but the pattern is cut + I'm itching for a project...

Photos via links (top one mine).

Love,
​Jane

Curator keeps the makers of their clothing close. All their clothing is made within a ten minute drive of their shop in the Mission District of San Francisco. I love that the process is documented often on Curator's instagram page. I also appreciate that the style of these pieces is a bit different from what has become somewhat standard in ethical fashion lately. Color, texture + fit stand out from the pack, without sacrificing the commitment to natural fibers + fair production. 

All lovely photos via Curator.

Love,
Jane

live, travel, adventure, bless, + don't be sorry
~Jack Kerouac

Today I got to thinking about what the most basic, functional, good clothing would be for me. ("Good" is such an underrated word.) What would those pieces be, if I were to have to start over from scratch (because of a house fire or natural disaster...like so many have)...if I were to be on a very tight budget (which I am)...or if I wanted to just exist in the most basic, functional, good space (which I usually do). What pieces would do their job + make me feel good day to day + all year long?

This may be a good way to start thinking through our wardrobes...whether we are simply doing a clean out...a curation...or a reassessment. Even if we don't want to live with such a small number of basics, this could be a good jumping off point for adding in other pieces + personalized touches. I like the idea of a small wardrobe because it helps me to live within my means, to consume what I need rather than over-consuming, to produce less waste that ends up in the landfill, and to choose fair when I need to consume.

It was surprisingly easy to come up with a sort of system for these pieces. My everyday outfit would consist of: pale, soft jeans + an oversized, oat-colored pullover. In order to help these pieces function in any weather I'd add a long-sleeved tee, sweatshirt, short-sleeved tee, + tank. All of these additional pieces would be white or cream.

My outfit that would function well in the more formal settings I find myself in (but also for everyday) would be: black pants, black silky tank, black pullover + flats. In order to allow these pieces to function in a broader range of circumstances, I'd add a short-sleeved tee, sweatshirt + long-sleeved tee. All of these pieces would be black accept for the shoes.

Lounging would call for black leggings or soft shorts + the above tops. All of the pieces could mix + match. Chosen with care, these pieces could function as athletic wear (leggings + tank) + sleepwear (soft shorts + tank) as well.

My basic, functional, good pieces ::
-pale jeans
-black pants
-leggings
-soft shorts
-pullovers: oat + black
-sweatshirts: cream+ black
-long-sleeved tees: black + white
-short-sleeved tees: black + white
-tanks: black + white
-footwear: flats, trainers, boots, sandals

Add some socks, underwear, a jacket, a tote bag and I imagine that these pieces would see me through most situation year round. I'd need to work up to having all of these pieces, if I were truly starting over. Seasons would spread out purchases + multiples could be put off. In theory, this could work. In practice...my mind + finding exactly what I want could get in the way. 

We are transformed through the renewal of the mind. I'm working at it.  :)

What would your most basic, functional, good pieces be?

Love,
Jane

Like so many of us, I've been grappling with how to feel about the state of things most especially these past few weeks. Becoming overwhelmed by anger or spiraling into a state of despair are tempting but ill-advised options when there are daughters to fight for...sons...friends...sisters...fellow humans too. The patriarchy has never so clearly been revealed as the enemy in my awareness as it is right now. This week a man with a lot of power said, "It's a very scary time for young men in America." What an even more scary time it is for young women then. When we identify more with the aggressors than with the victims in any given situation...whether we are thinking of police shootings, systemic racism, white supremacy, rape or assault...we need to question our alignment + motives. (Yep, I understand that he's identifying with who he sees as the (raging) victim...but in this situation that completely ignores the credibility + suffering of Christine Blasey Ford.)

My heart breaks for girls + boys who's perceptions of trust + entitlement are shaken + broken not only by their personal circumstances, but by the news from the very highest positions of power! The messaging is not subtle. You won't be believed. You have to have proof...but only if you are the victim. We don't want to disrupt a white, middle to upper class boy's life. You must have worn the wrong thing, said the wrong thing, drank too much. You can get away with it. Boys will be boys + girls will be trash. Further objectification (rather than the valuing of human worth + enduring love) will be the result. I wonder how to fight it. How do I keep cynicism from taking over the developing minds in my care? How do I nurture hope + compassion in the face of such disregard for all things female?

We give what we do not always get from others.

At the very least women can believe women. We can vote for women. We can run for office or encourage our female friends to do so. We can advocate for women. We can cheer for + support women who make the same decisions as us + for those who make different decisions for themselves. We can love + champion working mamas + work-at-home mamas + single mamas + women who aren't mamas + women who want to be mamas + differently abled women + refugee mamas + immigrant mamas + incarcerated mamas + addicted mamas + sick mamas + pregnant mamas + gay women + dying women + minimum wage earning mamas + poor girls + rich girls + bullied girls + enslaved women + transgender women + raped women + assaulted women + battered women + homeless women + Muslim women + Hindu girls + abandoned girls + orphaned girls + uneducated girls + hungry girls + all of the other kinds of women + girls! We can see girls + women apart from their labels + enveloped in their inherent value. We can raise sons who value girls and stand up with + for girls. We can welcome the men who join us. I have hope, because I know women have great strength + intelligence + creativity + endurance + kindness + love + will + grit. I have hope because I know my daughters.

Love,
Jane

P.S. (10/5/18) This is a great listen.

Last season I noticed a shift in one of the companies I've appreciated for it's commitment to fair-trade + organic cotton. Pact started listing a lot of products that were made with recycled polyester, which has been touted as a sustainable or ethical fabric. It's been showing up more + more on the ethical sites, and it has felt like a trend that can't be stopped. The fact that plastic fibers shedding from polyester have been found in our drinking water shows that it is not sustainable or ethical. 

I wrote to Pact to let them know that I loved their commitment to fair labor + organic cotton, but that recycled polyester was a deal breaker for me. I linked to the article about plastic fibers in our drinking water + let them know that I hoped they would reconsider using plastic fibers in their clothing. I don't think that I was alone, because...

This season...I can't tell you how excited I am to say this...the first thing I read on their site was "100% Organic Cotton + fair-trade factories"! Last season there were certain products that were each of these things, but now they are stating it right up front! There are pieces like leggings + sports bras that contain a blend of organic cotton + elastane...but other than socks, I only came across four pieces that contain polyester. (Yep, I checked all the women's listings.)  :)

The (second) highlight of the collection, for me, is the offering of high waisted, organic cotton, fair-trade, well-priced leggings! I've been waiting for them + can't wait to give them a try. There is also a collection of 100% organic cotton, fair-trade sweaters!

Pact runs some good sales, so be sure to sign up for their email list if + when you are interested in making a purchase. I'm not certain this will work because I've never done it before, but if you'd like 20% off + to give me a little credit for referring you...I'd sure appreciate you linking to Pact through this post. (Thank you, friends...and enjoy!)  :)

I have no way of knowing if my little note had any impact on this company (together with others it may have), but I do know that letting a brand know what its customers want is never a bad idea!

All lovely photos via Pact.

Love,
​Jane