made :: jacquard jacket

This jacket was a slow make...not because it was especially time consuming to sew. I just took my time making decisions...like what pattern to use (this was my original plan), whether or not to add a lining, whether or not to add a collar, and what closure method to employ. The fabric felt extra precious + that increased the pressure to get this project just right. ​

A note on this fabric :: I haven't seen the actual structure of this fabric discussed online (I'm sure it has been, I just haven't come across it), so I thought I'd mention it here. It feels luxurious like I thought it would...soft, with some heft + weight. The reverse side, however, is a very delicate, loosely woven cotton cheesecloth. The wadding is just cotton yarn laid in rows + tacked only by the visible quilt lines. When the fabric is cut, these yarn strands are loose + able to shift within the open square. The reverse side of my fabric showed pilling after a single prewash + line-dry. 

These factors led to the feeling that this fabric needed to be lined, which was not planned. I contemplated whether or not to quilt the whole jacket to this lining. I would have liked to quilt it by hand, but couldn't find any floss to match. At the moment, only the pockets are quilted to their linings. I will see how shifty the rayon/linen lining is with wear.

Pattern modifications :: I used the Grainline Tamarack Jacket pattern, straightened the hemline + lengthened the body a bit. A lining was added. To keep the jacket from flaring out at the hem, I added 2 inch wide elastic at the back hem. A collar + patch pockets were also added.

Snaps were used as the closure method. I get nervous about the durability of the snaps on this delicate fabric, but I think it gives the jacket a nice finish whether or not I use them. 

Pattern :: Grainline Tamarack Jacket (modified)
Fabric :: Merchant & Mills Jacquard cotton
Lining :: rayon/linen from Joann

Love,
​Jane