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made :: heroine jeans

2/14/2021

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I made jeans (!!)...and they fit! I chose the Merchant & Mills Heroine jeans pattern, because I like the high waist + sort of retro (classic) fit. I would normally choose jeans that are a bit more fitted in the thighs, but I thought that this fit might be quite comfortable (and it is). 

​I left the length that the pattern calls for + folded big cuffs. I really liked wearing a pair of jeans like this a while back + quite like the look with these too. I can also see cropping a pair of these jeans with a raw edge at some point too...maybe in a natural cotton color?  :)
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I actually enjoyed sewing jeans with this pattern. The sizing works for me without much alteration (lucky, I know). It is a totally manageable pattern taken one step at a time. A couple of things I purposely did in order to make my first experience with sewing jeans easier were:
  1. choosing a lighter weight denim which is helpful in getting the layers through the sewing machine
  2. purchasing the right sewing machine needle
  3. choosing non-constrasting thread which makes topstitching less stressful

Notes + alterations: 
  • cut one size smaller than the one my measurements put me in according to the pattern...the finished measurements listed on the pattern match my measurements exactly on the size I chose to cut
  • left back pockets off until the jeans were finished so that I could choose the size + placement...enlarged the pockets
  • did a flat felled seam on the inner leg seam + as far as I could up the outer side seams...in order to neaten the cuff fold ups
  • side seam allowances sewn to 2 cm instead of the 1.5 recommended (baste outer seams first...try them on + sew seams to fit) (I love the wide seam allowances which offer both strength + room for fitting)

Pattern :: Merchant & Mills Harlene (<<well-priced for the USA)
Fabric :: Merchant & Mills 8 oz. dark denim 
​Needle :: chrome denim needles (worked a charm)
Thread :: regular all-purpose thread in navy (makes mistakes almost invisible)
Button :: Citron Jeans (came with the toolkit)

It's pretty cool to know how each + every seam on the jeans I'm wearing came together. And as always, sewing gives me such respect for garment workers! Make a pair of jeans + then consider how much a pair of jeans in the store should cost.  ;)

Love,
Jane
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