Fair brands are cropping up (yay!)...new products are being dreamed up (yippee!)...and new conscious policies are being implemented (hooray!) all the time! We are in exciting times of development in awareness + response to sustainable + ethical practices in the garment industry! 

Able's wage disclosure plan is one of the most exciting ideas I've encountered recently. Able has published the lowest wage of their Nashville employees + how it stacks up to the published, Nashville living wage. They plan to do the same for their garment workers involved in making their bags, shoes, clothing + other products elsewhere in the world in the months to come. There are a few holes in this scheme such as the fact that many more hands go into making a garment than just the sewist. There are farmers, weavers, dyers, + transporters to name a few. Living wages can be controversial numbers as well. Fair-trade certification may be a better indicator of compliance, but I do believe that Able's disclosure plan has significance.

A few more developments include:
Hackwith Design House, the Minneapolis-made women's clothing line, has a spot on their site where they sell samples + preowned Hackwith pieces. There is a process for sending in worn pieces + earning money toward new ones. Items beyond repair will be made into new pieces! Amazing commitment toward zero-waste!
Domi, maker of organic cotton sleepwear in GOTS certified factories, is making daywear.
Ijji, maker of California-made, unisex pants + jackets is about to launch the softest looking corduroy pieces. The lines of those pants look just so good.
Industry of All Nations, maker of fair-trade goods, is making sunglasses hand-carved in Ethiopia!

​A few new-to-me discoveries in the past year are:
Everybody World :: something inspiring + different...made in the USA clothes, designed for + by everybody...including tees made from 100% recycled cotton!
Mate the Label :: organic cotton basics made in Los Angeles
LA Relaxed :: Knits for women, made in Los Angeles with natural materials, paid fair wages
Elegantees :: knit tops + dresses made by women in Nepal who have escaped sex trafficking, for women + girls (I especially like the girls' dresses)
Freeset :: fair-trade, non-profit for freedom from slavery in India, offering bags, scarves​, and organic tees for men + women
​
The last thing I want to do is to offer another place that promotes consumption. It is my hope that highlighting a few brands doing good work...and assembling a list of ethical brands...will provide a resource for those times when we do need to add a piece to our collection of useful tools (our wardrobes).  :) The fairdare list of ethical brands is being constantly updated. I also enjoy celebrating innovation + progress toward a garment industry that we can be proud of...one that not only provides for consumers, but also promotes the flourishing of garment workers, farmers + the environment.

All lovely photos via links. 

Love,
Jane

Struggle is a common word in this space. It's an honest word when it comes to parts of my journey toward simple, fair, compassionate living. One of the main things I've kept in mind from the beginning is that moving toward "fair" simply involves one choice at a time. I don't need to tackle an entire shift all at once...I move toward a fair wardrobe one choice at a time. I move toward zero-waste one choice at a time.

It is in these choices that I sometimes encounter struggle. As I address needs in my wardrobe, for example, the choices are not always black + white. Sometimes I can't find a fair + affordable version of exactly what I'm looking for. Sometimes one piece can't address fit, comfort, presentability, uniqueness, affordability, + longevity all at once...and I have to prioritize. Sometimes my desire for clothing to mask my imperfections + to say something about me too is just too much to ask.

This summer I struggled to assemble a collection of clothing that consistently felt like enough + like "me"...was presentable + appropriate + comfortable...wasn't too many pieces. It's been a couple of a years since I've felt such unrest in this area.

Learned :: Where there is struggle...the path to rest often involves some sort of surrender.

In regards to my clothing, one or more of the following could be surrendered:
1. want...I can't have everything
2. the desire to look a certain way...thin, young, hip...
3. less...I might need a few more pieces
4. the perfect fit
5. the idea of the perfect piece
6. dollars
7. style...I could just choose to give in to what can be found thrifting
8. the fairdare...I might not be able to find a completely fair version of something I need
9. materials...I might find that plastic fibers work best right now for some items
10. the desire for the perfect, simple collection of pieces
11. "need"...maybe I can uncomfortably do without

Sometimes it can be difficult to decide what to surrender...but I've found that at least sometimes it must be something. My values (fairdare, natural materials, budget, less) definitely provide some guidance. This summer after struggling to "fix" my wardrobe, I opted for somewhat uncomfortably doing without. 

The dress above was one I carefully planned to purchase. When it arrived, I just felt unsettled. Yes, I think it's fair...and it's fun (+ I am worthy of some fun). It felt like the perfect thing to wear the day it arrived + on an upcoming vacation. But I couldn't think of a way I'd like to wear it as the temperatures dip...I wasn't completely convinced that it was flattering on me...and it's quite an investment piece. But I love the colors + the weight of the fabric... + it's fun! 

Today I packed it back up to return + I instantly felt more at peace than I had the entire day before. Surrendering my "right" to own that beautiful dress + returning it was the right decision for today. The peace of mind confirmed it.

Also :: Perfect is the enemy of good. Perfection is always a good candidate for surrender.  :)

Love,
​Jane

I've been thinking a lot about struggle + surrender in the last few months. I've been working my way through the spiritual disciplines this year...practices including meditation, simplicity + submission. I wasn't at all excited about embarking on that last one, because I like my autonomy very much. Some big lessons came to light during my month of submission, however (and I have so far to go). 

Richard Foster writes in his book Celebration of Discipline that the purpose of the disciplines is not the discipline itself, but freedom. (I like the sound of that.)  :) He says that the freedom that corresponds with submission is "the ability to lay down the terrible burden of always needing to get our own way." Oh, how liberating that would be!

We practice submission or surrender when we take a break in our day to let a little one nap. We practice surrender when we set aside a project to lend a listening ear to a loved one going through a tough time. We practice surrender when we choose not to purchase a piece of clothing that most likely exploited a garment worker or farmer. We practice surrender when we choose not to buy goods needlessly packaged in plastic.

We practice surrender when we choose compassion over our own desires. We can surrender our desires and still recognize + honor the value of our own bodies, beings, and lives. We may just make some different choices along the way.
  
"In submission we are at last free to value other people. Their dreams and plans become important to us. We have entered into a new, wonderful, glorious freedom- the freedom to give up our rights for the good of others."

​Love,
Jane

It seems like we often gravitate toward simpler + simpler shapes + colors as we move toward simpler wardrobes. People who share their small wardrobes online often recommend a collection of black, white + grey pieces in classic shapes...a few tees (one striped), a couple of button-down shirts, a sweater, a jacket, black pants, jeans, a black dress, trainers, flats, heels. There is ample opportunity even within this formula to choose individual shapes + fit. It's a great basic collection that would serve almost any daily situation, + we seem to tire of these simple shapes + colors less quickly. 

Some simple wardrobe wearers inject a signature color or two for each season. This approach also requires restraint. Different people like different things, however, + I'm sure many have found their ways to more colorful, simple collections. I'm interested in exploring the possibility of building a small collection of a little bit more adventurous pieces...and to observe the speed of tiring of these pieces. Autumn colors invoke feelings of cozy rather than dread of the cold that is to come. ​They always call my name, so no doubt that has something to do with these thoughts...but not everything. I imagine that I'm not alone, as a wardrobe of paired down basics can get a little bland for some.

So anyway...here's a little collection of pieces that I imagine could make me quite happy in the season to come. I know that I often say something like that in a post like this. I'm aware that part of that comes from the fact that all of these pieces would be new to me...and I don't think that buying all new pieces each season is at all ethical or sustainable. So...obviously simply adding a less ordinary piece or two to my existing wardrobe is what I've really been exploring lately. What I'm struggling with a little bit is that I'm not used to seeing myself in pieces that aren't a bit more on the quiet side...and I'm wondering what's really "me"...or what I really want to wear. I'm still deciding.  :)

Love,
Jane

The big takeaway was something called standpoint theory that was coined by the philosopher, Sandra Harding...and the theory basically says that people on the receiving end of oppressive systems..people at the bottom of social hierarchies...will see things more accurately than people at the top...the ones benefiting from the system. Black women, for example, will share a general body of knowledge about how society is...about how it works... because of their common experiences. And according to Sandra Harding that shared understanding won't just be distinctive, it will actually be better knowledge, more true, than the collective picture of the world that privileged people, like me, will soak up from our surroundings. ~John Biewen via

I highly recommend this podcast series on "men"...from the people who brought us the standout series, Seeing White.

So here I am...making a labored decision to invite a pink jumpsuit to be part of my wardrobe. (An essential, no?)  :) This one arrived with long sleeves, upper flap pockets, low narrow pockets, + longer pant legs. Those rolled up long sleeves look best...but as such, the opportunities for wear are narrowed down significantly in my circumstances. It's too hot for long sleeves half of the time + they were too bulky to layer under a sweater the rest of the time. Short-sleeves will allow me to wear this piece during the summer + autumn...as well as layering under a cardigan better. Flaps on the pockets added volume where I don't need it. This jumpsuit seems to have been proportioned for someone taller, especially with the placement of pockets. The lower pair were too low + I prefer square ones, so I was able to use the sleeve fabric for new pockets + placement. The legs were shortened a little + now...this jumpsuit is "me". (I also have a little fabric left over for patching, if needed somewhere down the line.)

A large portion of the pieces in my closet have undergone some sort of alteration or embellishment. I think it enhances my connection. 

Love,
​Jane

P.S. Soundtrack playing in my mind for this post.  :)

I was able to read Shia Su's Zero Waste as well as Alison Roman's Dining In this week. (I love our library!) Dining In is full of simple, delicious inspiration. It is not a zero-waste book necessarily, but the recipes are quite zero-waste friendly. It's interesting to see a new crop of zero-waste books coming out + the perspective of each author coming through. A few more include:
-Waste Not
​-Zero Waste Adventure
​-Soon to be released Sustainable Home
-The original: Zero-Waste Home

What are you reading this weekend?

Love, 
Jane

Voluntary simplicity means going fewer places in one day rather than more,
seeing less so I can see more, doing less so I can do more,
​acquiring less so I can have more.
~Jon Kabat-Zinn

This amazing pair of vintage, Esprit shoes also belong to Jo. With wear over the last year or two, the soles started to separate from the bottom of both shoes. (I've had this issue with another pair of vintage shoes, so it just seems that the glue dries out over time.) One trip to the cobbler + less than $20 later...and these shoes are better than ever (because he gives them a little polish as well)! A good cobbler is a treasure.

Shoe making is an art. We all know the value of a well-fitted, comfortable shoe. Maybe it is an art that we can learn! Classes + kits are available. 

Although most of the brands that made shoes in country even 10 or 20 years ago have moved production to China, there are a few places to find fairly made shoes. A few of the brands I have found are listed on the ethical brands page under the footwear heading. Please let me know if you have some favorites! I try to make sure to let companies know that I am grateful for their commitment to traceable production + fair wages when I make a purchase...so they will know that their customers notice + value this practice!

So...fair shoes :: 5 ways:
1. Wear what we have
2. Repair
3. Buy second hand
4. Make them
​5. Buy fair

Love,
​Jane