At the beginning of each new year (+ throughout the year as well), I like to revisit my zero-waste habits to see if they can be improved upon. First up: bathroom items. I've shared my journey in the haircare department before. My big jug of shampoo was almost empty, and I wondered if I could get away from using even that plastic. I decided to give shampoo + conditioner bars another go. The shampoo bars I tried in the past left my hair waxy, damaged + tangled. (Haircare is so personal! Texture, length + desired outcome matter.) Some shampoo bars contain sodium lauryl sulfate...a scalp-irritating foaming agent involved in some controversy about itself being...or being present in conjunction with...a carcinogen. (I'd rather avoid it.)

I don't think I'd tried Ethique before, and the reviews made the bars sound like they were worth a try. Ethique offers a variety of plastic-free, cruelty-free, palm oil-free, sodium lauryl sulfate-free products. On the other hand, they originally come to Amazon from New Zealand...so there is shipping involved. I plan on requesting our grocer to stock them, since it would mesh well with the ethics of the store. 

So here's the best part: this shampoo bar + this conditioner bar work for me! The shampoo bar gives a nice lather. The conditioner bar doesn't feel like my previous conditioner, but my hair is about as easy to comb out as it was before...and my hair feels soft when it dries. I've noticed no broken hair or waxy buildup. I've been using the bars shown above every day for almost three weeks. I'm very interested to see how long they will last (and will be sure to share) in order to gauge cost effectiveness.

In addition to the shampoo + conditioner bars, I've been using a body butter bar from Lush a couple of times per week. It provides enough moisture + leaves my skin feeling so soft that I don't need to apply body lotion! My bar was a lovely gift. Ethique also has lotion bar options.

How thrilling is it that people are joining this movement to reduce waste + are coming up with new options to share all the time!? (yay!)

As usual, this is not a sponsored post. I just share things I appreciate + think are positive options.  :)

Love,
Jane

I'd like to say that I've been able to kick my wanties once + for all. I'd like to say that I've found eternal peace + contentedness with my small, simple wardrobe...but it takes work for me. So I write about it here.

I find myself looking at clothes lately + not really even knowing why. I don't need an outfit for an event. I don't need a piece for a certain function. (Noted: That's a testament to the functionality of the collection I've assembled.) I might look at pieces that I know will not really fit my life where I live. What am I looking for?

Asking that question is an important part of my return trip toward liberation. It's the only thing I really have to share: Ask the question. So what am I looking for? Here are some of the ways I think I could answer that question lately:

I'm looking for/to...
-Something new...a new outlook...a new discovery...a new adventure
-A new definition of myself...adding a new edge...becoming more relevant or cute or cool
-Feelings of worth...worthy of love...worthy of respect
-Feel like I have something to offer
-Support a brand doing good work...be a part of the community they've created
-Acceptance into a group
-Prove that I matter
-Prove that I have good taste
-Prove that I am worthy of nice things
-A satisfied feeling...like feeling full
-Love
-Something to do
-that adrenaline rush that comes from pushing "submit order"
-Own a piece of art...something I admire...

All of this...even if it doesn't suit me or my life...even if it would be more satisfying in the long run to save our money or send it toward our mortgage...even if I don't need another piece of clothing...

I can also decide if I truly need something...because sometimes I do. Stuff is not bad. The overconsumption of stuff is the problem. When an item serves a purpose, and its fair production is taken into account...paying for it is justified. Caring for it + finding a place for it is satisfying.

If I find that I am really looking for something other than a necessary item, I can ask myself what would better satisfy my longing. Some thoughts:

-cranking music + dancing (Yoke Lore is my current favorite)
-yoga or stretching
-a glass of water
-a walk
-cooking something to share
-gardening
-some deep, intentional breaths
-making + savoring a cup of tea
-a chat

What are you looking for?

Love,
Jane

This week I pretty much set all other books aside to read Jane Eyre by Charlotte Brontë along with Julia. It's interesting to grapple with what was "of a time period" + what is completely unattractive to the females living in this house today. It was difficult to see this book as romantic at many points.  :) 

I've also been reading Ryder Carroll's The Bullet Journal Method. I did bullet journalling according to his method a couple of years ago + found it worked well. I've since gone back to having a planner (I picked up this one while in California) alongside an indexed journal of ideas + plans. I like to keep the journal, but find all the daily to-do lists unnecessary to keep. This one will be easy to recycle with the removal of two staples. This book is a good in depth explanation of the method, but I found this video concise + inspiring enough to begin my own practice.

Is the pendulum about to swing back or is it just gone?
​An inspiring daily practice.
​We're reading anyway.

We're stomping through + shoveling + sitting inside looking at...snow today. Hope you are having a cozy weekend, friends!

Love, 
Jane

P.S. I love the library!  ;)

“Technocrats tell us we can’t go backward, we can’t refuse technology, because then we won’t progress. We are told that life is increasingly complex, that’s the way it is. If this is all true, then we are doomed.
Going back to a simpler life based on living by sufficiency rather than excess is not a step backward; rather, returning to a simpler way allows us to regain our dignity, puts us in touch with the land, and makes us value human contact again.”
~Yvon Chouinard

I received a thoughtful comment recently asking about my use of the word "tribe" in this space. My reply was a little lengthy + I thought maybe I should just address its use out in the open, so...here's the comment...followed by my response:

I have been wondering about something in your lexicon, and I hope this does not come across as critical (just curious). You often use the word "tribe" to refer to your family, and I've been hearing a lot of discussion in the ethical fashion community about cultural appropriation of these types of words. I don't mean to assume that you don't have Native American heritage, but just wondering how you feel about the use of this term in that context.

​It's interesting that you bring this up, because lately every time I type that word...I hesitate for exactly the reasons you mention. I've been reading An Indigenous People's History of the United States by Roxanne Dunbar-Ortiz + reading + listening to as much as I can that will connect me with an understanding of history + human relationship. These times call for awareness + sensitivity + allyship. I want to learn + grow + take good action.

While I am not of Native American heritage, I've been drawn to the beauty of Native American symbols, art + object for as long as I can remember. A beaded necklace, a braided bracelet + soft leather moccasins were (and still are) some of my childhood treasures. We've explored Native American sites with reverent admiration + awe. We spent years living at the edge of reservations. The beauty of the craft, the reverence for nature, the recognition of the sacred, the ability to live in harmony with the earth...I have a great appreciation + admiration for all of it. I have the utmost respect for Native American heritage + the utmost sorrow for its attempted obliteration...past + present. With all sincerity, one of the very best days of 2018, for me, was the day that the first Native American women were elected into the House of Representatives...one for which I enthusiastically + proudly voted.

From my understanding, cultural appropriation involves ignoring origins and/or spiritual significance + acting like something belongs to someone (often with greater power) other than the originator. In the fashion world, it can be difficult to know if one is honoring or plundering a culture for material. (Having pieces made by people in the native culture, paying them fair wages + providing a platform for their stories might be a step in the right direction.) The discussion of cultural appropriation can be a bit sticky, because it often involves deciphering motives. I love wearing Mexican embroidery + Indian block prints. My home is filled with Native American pottery, African baskets, Chinese calligraphy + Indian prints. I like to eat Italian, Indian, Greek, Mexican, + Japanese food. I wear + display + eat things associated with these cultures not because I think they belong to me or seek to profit from them...but because I greatly appreciate their beauty + taste. I want to honor these things + their origins. 

The English language is made up almost entirely of words borrowed from other languages. The word tribe comes from Old French + Latin. There are African tribes, nomadic tribes, tribes that live in the Amazon rainforest, the twelve tribes of Israel, etc. But yes, reference to tribe conjures, in some of us, a thought toward Native American tribes. I try my best to choose words that communicate my meaning effectively. The way I use the word "tribe" communicates what I think it means. I use the word "tribe", because it gives tangible, visible form to the best of what I want this group of people with whom I live to embody. We are a tight knit group of humans bound by love + devotion + respect. We exist to nurture a common flourishing. We are bound together by something stronger than blood, and I want all of that to extend beyond my girls' childhood. I want friendship + working toward common care + keeping of each other + this planet to bind us together into old age. I want tribe...not just the connotation of modern American family.

I also like using the word tribe, because it can expand to include you. It can expand to include all of us who see that we are all connected...our actions affect each other + all those whom we will never meet...all those who speak different languages + have different customs...all those who fly + gallop + swim + photosynthesize. We are all connected...we are, in this way, "tribe".

I want to be sensitive to Native Americans' desires. I live with open hands. Words are not mine to keep. I try my best to use them with care. Please let me know what you think in the comments. 

Thank you for starting this discussion, friend.  :) 

Love,
Jane

It started as a little pile of scrappy indigo cotton + linen saved from projects + clothing past. I thought these scraps could possibly become a jacket, because they would need to be pieced together + backed (quilt style) in order to cover all the raw edges. The pieces were sewn together based on a sewing pattern I already had...all the time I was aware that I was having a hard time picturing myself actually wearing the resulting garment. For some reason, I just wanted to make it anyway. 

I basted the quilted pieces together, and it just didn't work as a garment. So, the project was put aside for a bit. I decided that turning it into a Grainline Tamarack Jacket, with its closer fit, was worth a try. The pieces I'd sewn didn't exactly match up with the new pattern pieces...so pieces were added here, bits were removed there, and the hand quilting was repaired at the edges. The work was slow, but it was also (mostly) kind of fun. I usually like to zip through projects quickly, but this time I made an effort to slow down + enjoy the process. An hour or two spent working on it here or there made progress. 

Pattern :: Grainline Studio Tamarack Jacket
Fabric :: Leftover bits of linen + cotton from garments + projects past
Notes :: 
​-No batting. I like the weight of the two layers of fabric as is.
-Sleeves are probably a little shorter than the pattern's (just where I like them)
-No curves in the sides of the hemline
-All of the inside seams + outside edges are covered with bias binding, which gives this jacket a very satisfyingly clean result.
-I like the jacket without snaps or zipper, but may change my mind. At the moment, I'm picturing wearing it open or tied at the waist.
-I'm not sure if it looks super crafty, but I like it anyway.  :)

I think much of the appeal of making this jacket was that I knew those scraps could come together to make a complete garment. I wanted to see just what those offcuts could become...because they didn't need to be waste.

Love,
Jane

When I read or listen to the words of others talking about engaging in + maintaining habits like minimalism or healthy eating or zero-waste or sticking to a budget...they often offer motivations like the desire to travel* more or to lose x number of pounds or to fit their trash into a jar or to pay off loads of credit card debt. These motivations are concrete + measurable. They can be accomplished + lived. 

I hear these messages + wonder: What is my motivation? Am I at a point where I am just trying to maintain...to stay out of debt (other than our mortgage), to keep my wardrobe small, my purchases as fair as possible + my home free from the unnecessary? Yes, there is that. But should I be basing my life on experiences or making it a goal to travel more? Should I make a bucket list? Should I always be looking for the next thing?

I've struggled to think of what my motivation could be. I love things like experiences + travel. They just don't totally speak to me as a major motivation right now. 

I've finally worked out what my motivation is for myself through writing. I wrote + wrote until my mind came around to recognizing my personal motivation...compassion. It feels silly to have struggled so long...once I reached this conclusion. It's right there in the description of this space. Compassion motivates me to consider my tribe, my body, fellow humans, farmers, garment workers + the planet in my choices. It just seems a bit out of step with the motivations others offer as their own perfectly wonderful examples. 

Sometimes motivation is easy to recognize. Maybe our goals provide their own motivation. Maybe zero debt is the motivation. Maybe setting up a simple life in order to work a job that engages a passion is the motivation. Motivation might be a little bit harder to label once the debt is paid off + the job is landed. Maybe we pursue contentment or gratitude in the life we worked toward + now inhabit. Maybe we can pursue growth or awareness right where we find ourselves. Maybe faith or open hands or generosity or service is our motivation. 

Motivation can be the talisman that refocuses...the crutch that helps us take another step...the grit pushes us to persevere. Motivations come in so many different forms. Taking the time to find the right one for right now can be so helpful moving forward into a new year full of possibility + hope. 

* various motivators are in italics

Love, 
Jane

I'm in the final stages of finishing a project. I think I might actually like this one + will hopefully love wearing it. All of this has me thinking about what my next project could be. The search for inspiration has revealed a few new discoveries in the independent sewing pattern department. (Exciting!) 

Common Stitch is one of those discoveries that has me dreaming of a new linen jumpsuit, voile summer pajamas, or strappy sundress. I could definitely see myself happily wearing these simple pieces over + over. In addition to sewing patterns, Common Stitch offers project kits + finished garments.

It is so exciting to find a new sewing pattern designs I instantly connect with...and The Assembly Line is one of those collections. I'm loving the simple, straightforward shapes...the beautiful colors...and the sturdy fabrics these pattern are made up in. These pieces look wearable + trend bucking, while still offering interesting details like the wide elastic cuffs + raglan sleeves.

Elbe Textiles is a pattern collection that I found + made as quickly as I could. Again the styling + fabrics chosen to show off these designs connected with me on a visceral level. I would replicate that jacket exactly, if I could locate the fabric.  :) I sewed up the pants right away + feel pretty excited about the possibilities of making them for others in my tribe as well (even Mr. Tribe!). I've been working on a version of the jacket, but think I'll need to try again in a different fabric. Elbe Textile's designer, Lauren, is interested in zero-waste, natural dyes + creative use of textiles which is really fun to follow along with.

One glimpse of Paper Theory's Kabuki Tee + I was smitten. The simplest top becomes something special with those seams. The LB Pullover is captivating as well...a sculptural, linen funnel neck...brilliant! Tara designs Paper Theory patterns as a tool to escape fast fashion, but not fashion altogether.

Pattern Fantastique makes patterns so architectural that they feel like wearable art. Nita-Jane makes the most amazing garments with her patterns. I don't usually want to replicate a garment fabric + all, but she tempts such a desire. That pattern mixing + well worn denim!

It is so exciting to see all of the independent designers out there making patterns that feel very personal...and in turn feel personal to many that identify with that aesthetic. No more are we confined to the big pattern books at the big fabric stores (which, I admit, could occupy me for hours in the past). I am so grateful for all the creativity these designers work so hard to share + am happy to support their efforts when I find a design that speaks to me + could earn a spot in my small wardrobe.

Lots more independent pattern makers here. All lovely photos via the designers.

Love,
​Jane

And now let us welcome the new year, full of things that never were.
~Rainer Maria Rilke

This is the third post in a series of looks back into the notebook I've filled over the past year. I'm taking note of the mistakes made, small victories earned + lessons learned in 2018. Here is what I have to say about budget:

::Losing all of our equity, when we sold our last home during the economic downturn, made us feel blessed to be able to purchase the home we live in now (+ blessed to sell our previous home for what we owed on it). We'd really like to pay off this mortgage as soon as possible + sent extra money toward our mortgage every month this year. I made it a priority, and I followed through. I just wrote the line item for mortgage as the amount I wanted to pay...so it was already built in (instead of waiting to see if any money was left over at the end of the month). It involves sacrifice, but that money is worth so much more now. (It cuts down significantly on the number of payments we'll have to make into the future.) (Plug different extra payment amounts into an amortization calculator + get inspired by the months needed to pay it off disappearing!)

::My "replacements only" commitment hit a few large snags. We had to replace a set of tires, a toilet + a stove this year. (The stove actually caught fire!) I'm so glad that we had our buffer for these expenses. (No credit card debt!) I'm working at building that back up now (tax returns help).

::I really tried to look ahead + add up all of the expenses involved with my daughter's activities. The total was divided by 12 + now the money is put aside monthly, so it's there when I need to pay it. The expenses come in large, irregular chunks...and I would try to eek them out of our miscellaneous budget. This threw things off for months at a time + made me feel a bit defeated. Now our miscellaneous budget has shrunk significantly, but at least I know what I really have.

::I was able to lower my monthly cell phone bill when my contract was up. My phone still works, so I don't need a new one. The phone company is not going to tell us that we can renegotiate...so it pays to remember + do the work of making the changes.

::I must admit that I lost sight of the "replacements only" commitment quite often this year. I went looking for a little excitement in my wardrobe + in my home + in my circumstances. I returned most everything bought this way...but my restlessness showed. I'd like to be much more focused going forward.

::We went on a lovely vacation paid for mostly with airline + hotel points. This was all thanks to the foresight of Mr. Tribe, and it was a long time in the making. I don't generally like making things more complicated than they need to be, but am now a believer in these things.  :) 

We are still doing most of the things mentioned in the simple budget posts in order to keep our bills as low as possible. I have some plans in this area for the year to come + they involve a lot of awareness + discipline. At the moment I'm feeling up to the task. Onward.  :)

Love,
Jane